Jowett Kestrel Rebuild & Restoration

[george garside]

There should be a 1930 parts list but I can't find one on here.

I agree with Ians thoughts about the possibility of a little hole in the flat on the bellhousing to take the 'tail' of a spring. Perhaps there is one there full of years of solid 'crud'!
george

[george garside]

[attachment=0]jowett 1930.jpg[/attachment]

factory photo of 1930 chassis which unfortunately doesn't show the mystery spring but does give an indication of were the tail of it is NOT anchored!!
george

[ian Howell]

George (et al): -

I will try to have a look for the li'l 'ole later today but it seems the best hope so far.

On the 1933 Parts List on page 12, it seems to point to part No. 2043x1 which is described near the bottom of page 13 as 'spring for clutch pedal' but not sufficiently clearly to show any 'anchorage'.

Still, progress of a kind! I notice that some motorbike kick-start return springs are fairly similar and could perhaps be 'doctored'.

Watch this space.

PS. Apologies to you Julian as this post seems to have taken over from your 'rebuild'.

Where are you now?

[ian Howell]

Not good.

I had a good look at the clutch pedal shaft bearings / bosses last night and there is no sign of a li'l 'ole for the other end of the spring and no signs of scratches or chafing where one might have been in the past.

My next move is to make up a dummy spring using something like fencing wire to give me a pattern to check against springs that could be modified to fit.

I still find it rather irritating that collectively we have been unable (so far) to find a definitive answer.

Thinking about other possibilities, I wonder if the return spring might have been fitted (I don't know where) INSIDE the bell housing? The shaft does not protrude the other side so there's no possibilities there.

[julian]

It's amazing what responses a simple question can trigger.
I've been busy with other jobs on the car and have neglected the forum a bit recently, but very interesting to catch-up.

I struggled to get decent pictures of the spring as fitted to the Kestrel, but here they are:

This is an underside view and it is just possible to make out the bend in the spring on the lower left of the picture - this locates on the mounting bracket and there is a witness mark on this bracket, so I'm fairly sure this is correct.

The next picture is a top side view showing the hooked end located around the peg on the clutch pedal. I think this probably should be on the lower peg, but I wasn't able to pull it far enough to reach - probably because of my repair to the spring.

[julian]

...and so onto what I have been doing recently.

I will be removing the body some time later in the year when the weather warms up a bit. In the meantime, having progressed fairly well with the engine, I was keen to see if the car would move under its own steam. Having re-assembled the clutch pedal, I spent some time freeing off the clutch release bearing which had become lodged on a rusty drive shaft (probably when I first pressed the pedal with new fittings). Once this was cleaned-up and lubricated (sparingly) I was able to adjust the clutch and check the operation. All seemed to move OK and after rocking the car back and forth with the pedal pressed I was able to confirm the clutch was clearing OK.

So I started the engine, pressed the clutch, engaged 1st gear and tentatively raised the clutch. To my joy the car moved effortlessly out of the garage and back again in reverse!! I obviously need to check out everything properly in the drive train, but it all looks very promising.

While the temperature in the garage is less than appealing I decided to work on the instrument panel in my slightly warmer shed. This was mainly about cleaning, painting, refurbishing and re-wiring and although it's taken a good many hours I'm quiet pleased with the results. Pictures of before and after..

You will probably notice that the PLC has been replaced as the incorrect one was fitted. Thanks to Tony for supplying a kit of parts which I was able to repair and re-build (again after many hours and some expletives trying to re-assemble). Picture shows the inside of the moulding and the two ignition switch supports. One had broken off and the other was missing. A new part was made and both then pegged and glued in position - seems to be holding so far!

[julian]

Photos below show the rear of the instrument panel before and after. I originally intended to rewire completely, but found after a bit of measuring & repair I was able to re-use the original wiring loom. I couldn’t locate any resistance wire of the correct value so used a 33 ohm resistor for the ignition warning lamp.

I've now installed the instrument panel back in the car and wired up to the ignition, battery & dynamo. All looking good with ignition key, ignition light, instrument illumination and selection of low/high charge rate all functioning

[ian Howell]

Julian (me again!): -

You are doing a great job with the instrument panel etc. I am sure the rest of the car will be to the same high standard and a great credit to you once complete (and a source of envy for many, including me!).

Thank you for taking the trouble to photograph the clutch return spring arrangement on your car. Unfortunately this is totally different to mine, your clutch pedal has a separate support shaft and two rods connecting it to the clutch operating shaft, whereas the shaft on mine passes directly through the bell housing and carries the clutch operating 'fingers'.

Using a piece of very stiff welding wire I have now made up a 'space model' of the type of spring I assume will be needed. Strangely, although it is obviously not a carbon steel material it does seem to have enough 'spring' in it to actually work - even if only as a temporary measure. I will try to harden it a bit to see if that improves things but I still don't have a clue as to where the 'other end' could be anchored!

I will try to fit it in the next few days to see if light will suddenly dawn.

Ever hopeful . . .

[julian]

Ian, I checked out my 1932 3-speed gearbox and no clutch spring is installed either inside or outside the casing.

Today marked a major event (for me anyway) in the Kestrel restoration - removal of the body!

Over the last few days I'd been working towards removing the body by disconnecting cables & pipes going to the engine and removing all the body to chassis fixings. I then jacked up the body in stages and inserted 2 pieces of timber between the chassis and body. This then allowed me to insert a lifting strap around the lower section of the body and with an engine hoist I was able to lift the body clear of the chassis and with a bit of adjustment I found the centre of gravity.

I then built two platforms from 3" x 2" timber to a height just above the top of the wheels. The platforms were positioned each side of the body and the body then hoisted up so the bottom was just above the height of the platform. Two timbers were then inserted to span the platforms and the body lowered to sit on the timbers. This did need some assistance from my good lady as the body was a bit "wobbly" as it was raised up, but she did a sterling job of handling the jack and timbers.

[Tony Fearn]

Very impressive Julian!
Is the front piece of wood sufficiently strong to take the weight for some time? It doesn't seem to be 3"x2", and the longer side isn't vertical.
The rear piece seems thicker.
Also, for belt and braces, perhaps a couple of cross-brace stringers on the platform legs to stop splay.
No need to reply.
Tony.

[julian]

Tony, thanks for the comments - the front timer is a 6" x 1" so I believe is OK, but I'll keep an eye on it. You are right about to cross braces - I will be adding these soon.

The next photo shows the chassis being rolled out from under the body after removing the driver's side rear mug-guard to clear the wheel (the passenger side had already been removed before I got the car)

..and finally the chassis gets to see the light of day.

I've now removed the petrol tank, petrol pipe, brake-light switch and started on the chassis clean-up. More to follow.

[julian]

During the time since my last post, I've been working on the chassis. The picture shows the chassis with brake rods & linkages removed and rubbed down and ready for painting.

Having carried out painting the chassis , I decided to remove the gearbox to improve access for cleaning and also to examine the clutch.

The frames I made for supporting the body made a perfect resting place for the gearbox..

[Forumadmin]

I do love how these pre-war cars are so easy to work on!

[Chris Spencer]

I do love how these pre-war cars are so easy to work on!

So why have you not got one in the fleet ??

[Forumadmin]

Because no doubt yours will clutter up the Health and Beauty Salon soon.