Early Javelin Restoration

[Chris Spencer]

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Old English White has been chosen as the colour for the interior metal ware / trim

[Chris Spencer]

I managed to un pick the welds on the repair panel and reshape it a little more in order to get the swage line in alignment with the rear door / front wing

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Once I was happy with it I removed the door and fully welded the repair panel, then a quick clean up and remounted the door to check for the fit

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[Chris Spencer]

Still have some welding repairs to undertake on the doors and the N/S/R wing

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But now running out of time to get the car to the dippers in order to get the car back before the holidays - so movement wheels under the car and the welding to the panels will be completed upon the cars return

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[Chris Spencer]

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Loaded up and ready for the trip to the dippers in Tamworth

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Unloaded a lot easier than loaded

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Just one of the many bodyshells having gone through the paint / rust removal process at Envirostrip

[Chris Spencer]

Very busy with the day job but found time over the last few days to collect the shell & panels from Envirostip at Tamworth

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I could not have picked a worse day to collect them (Monday) 3 covers - loads of straps

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Very steady 45 - 50 MPH return trip - through constant rain and very strong winds - Not one to miss an opportunity we stripped down the bulkhead for my Jupiter special project and took it up to Envirostrip

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I do not intend starting the project any time soon but it may as well get bare metaled - I will paint it with etching primer when its done and return it to storage for now.

[Chris Spencer]

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Now back in the workshop

[Chris Spencer]

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The process has highlighted several areas that are weak or hold pin holes - these just would have not been found had we not used this process

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Typical are these pin holes in the filler neck of the fuel tank - there are further weak areas on the tank which shall have to be addressed - the bare metal is sprayed with an inhibiter before leaving Envirostrip - it will stay in a bare metal form whilst the remaining welding is completed and second panel fit achieved - lead loading of repair & deep damage areas shall take place prior to final filling / reshaping & panel alignment

[Keith Clements]

Just so you do not think that the mechanicals are not being attended to....
Today tried to get the rear drums off but on one of them the thread was well and truly hammered and broken. So I found a file with the correct profile, as I do not have a die to suit, and spent an hour reshaping the thread till the puller went on. The oil seal had leaked so a new one will be fitted. On the other side the shoes were not wearing evenly so the plate post stop will be adjusted. See 1948 parts manualpage 23 (actually page 21 in pdf) at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock on the backing plate (although the list does not itemise the part as it is part of the backplate).

[Keith Clements]

A couple of days have been spent cleaning and inspecting the rear axle assembly.
Firstly the threads had to be repaired on the drums so as to put the hub puller on.

One side was leaking grease possibly due to a poor casting with air bubbles in it.

These holes will be filled with plastic metal.

I also suspect that there is too much end float as the oil seal seems to be moving about 5mm along the shaft, rather than running in a constant "groove".

The casing had been painted over rust so old paint was removed and surface coated with phosphoric paint.
It starts out biege and turns black (after an hour). This is after 10 minutes.

The back plates were also derusted.

Prior to this, pictures of the brake assembly were taken as it is different to the hydraulic. It was noted that one shoe was wearing unevenly.

[Chris Spencer]

Keith in action with the clean up process of the axle

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and the final result now awaiting paint

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[Chris Spencer]

The NSF door required the welding repairs to be completed - the dipping process having removed the body solder from both the factory joins and a previous restoration

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With poor repairs like this and further rust perforations a drastic course of action is required

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With the section removed, new repair skin formed and welded in - due to previous accident damage to the door skin which had distorted / stretched the skin along with heat distortion from the welding some reshaping was required - the problem with doors is the close proximity of the door shell and areas that are difficult to access with a hammer / dolly - to counteract this I welded several temporary pulling tags to the skin in the worst areas - I could now use a slide hammer or pair of grips to provide outward force in low areas of the skin whilst I worked the high areas with a panel hammer

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[Chris Spencer]

The awkward radius corners to the glass aperture in both lower corners of the door skin showed up as weak with slight perforations / previous repairs - these were recessed and repaired with body solder

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Welding repairs complete & the pulling tags removed the door now awaits the process of body solder filling to the deeper repair areas before a final reshaping with a low weight high quality body filler

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[David Morris]

Hi guys,

Happy New Year to you all. As usual, excellent work! Can I mention that Keith comments on the need to replace the oil seal as it has leaked? I am probably in danger of telling grandmother how to suck eggs, but there are two sets of seals on each side, one for the Hub and the other for the shaft. As this is an early hydro-mechanical axle, the reference numbers for the Axle Shaft Oil Seal is part 869 HA-079 and the Hub Oil Seal Assy.is part 875 HA-057-1. The later full-hydraulic axle had Jowett reference numbers for both the seals, but as I believe the half shafts are much smaller in diameter for the early axle, these will not be compatible.

I believe the inner oil seals are made from leather, but am not sure on this. If JCS doesn't keep them, as they are very early types, it might be worth exploring the other makes of cars that used Salisbury axles?

Hope this helps?

David

[Chris Spencer]

Progress continues with the final fettling & making good of the panels & bodyshell

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N/S/R door - probably the best out the four doors for the car but still had rust perforations to flange edge of the door skin - I opted to repair with this with body solder - effected area was slightly rebated cleaned up and solder paste applied

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Solder paste heated and wiped clean

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Body solder applied

[Chris Spencer]

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Solder shaped initially with a flap wheel on the angle grinder then final profile achieved by hand with P80 production paper - Body solder / leading is straight forward task but rather than go into detail with it here there are several videos on Youtube that demonstrate the process - my tip being that you need the just the right amount of heat along with some time & patience - too little heat and you will get nowhere - too much and you will have the solder running quicker than the grand national off the panel

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Rust perforations were also found around this retaining hole for the waistline chrome trim

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Easy way of cutting back to sound metal with cone / radial step drill