Javelin sill rubber

[paul wilks]

Has anybody found a suitable alternative to the rubber seal fitted to the Javelin sill please?

I know that Edgeware Body Trim suppliers have a wide variety of rubber trim which could be a suitable but rather than try each one in turn(!) has anyone found one which works?

Thanks for your help

Paul

[Forumadmin]

Got mine from JCS last year.

[paul wilks]

Thanks. Did you use the metal strips to secure the rubbers (mine have long since disappeared!) or did you use adhesive?

Paul

[Alf Heseltine]

I used metal strips, got mine from B & Q, the correct width for the Rubber supplied by JCS.

Regards Alf.

[robert lintott]

Paul, I have the same problem , no rubber seals on any sills . I want to install some but have measured the gap between the sill and the inner face of the door flange to find variations from almost nil up to two cm . Presumably the restorer did not check the sill location when welding in new sills, which otherwise look as new . Is the rubber from JCS sufficiently thick but compressible to cope with this variation ? It would be worth checking these gaps first .

An alternative is to cut strip to size for each door and glue it to the lower door flange inner face to but up against the sill, has anyone tried this ?

If fitting to the sill I would think metal strip is essential, otherwise the strip is certain to fall off or be detached by shoes etc ? In fact my sills have holes ready drilled for this . regards Bob

[Forumadmin]

I used the metal strips. The rubber will only compress by about 4mm when fitted but since it is a semi circle you could pack it out with some foam or silicone to about 20mm from sill so in theory you could accommodate a gap from 20 to 6mm. It may not look all that good when the door is open though! A more compressible neoprene foam might do the trick; but is the look or the draught proof more important?

One solution might be to use black silicone sealer and construct a mould from a plastic pipe to accommodate your gap variation. Or you could cut down a piece of black rubber pipe at a suitable angle.

We have found some pretty bad welding on the cars we have looked at, especially around the sill and outriggers. Door fit and gaps can tell you a lot about what is underneath but not all, as can be learnt from the 'Early Javelin Rebuild ' thread.

[Jack]

I thought the metal strip was to hold in the edge of the carpet - as otherwise when getting into the car you can catch your foot on the carpet and end up headfirst into the footwell!

I can't remember seeing a seal on the bottom sill, on every car I've looked at in detail it is stuck to the door, right in the corner, and I would expect it to be caught by shoes etc.

Bob, unless you are getting water coming in the bottom of the door, you could just run a seal around the top and sides of the door to keep rain etc out. The bottom of the door will drain with the help of gravity, unless you are planning on driving a lot in very wet conditions or very sensitive to draughts (you've come this far without it!) you probably won't get much water coming up there anyway so might not need a seal. The JCS seal could probably cope with the 2cm gap but wouldn't fit where the gap is very close.

Jack.

[robert lintott]

For all ! I hope Paul is enjoying this interchange , at least we are still on topic . For me while the welding quality is good the sills seem to be just a bit inboard--at the "door handle" end --of where they should be so the JCS rubbers would not fit well . A better solution is to get a soft section to glue inside the bottom flange of the doors , out of sight . I have fitted a set of JCS seals to the doors but they were enough for the side and top only --but a great success.

The carpet retainer is ,as Jack says , to keep the carpet in place and is shown in the spares book no. 1968/1969 j646/01, j648/01. Why bother ? Well there is a draught and in the Somerset lanes wet red earth ends up on the sills having come through the gap , but it is not vital .

good luck Paul , Bob

[Jack]

Bob, if the issue is draught, a much simpler solution might be to fit a much more compressible closed cell sponge as opposed to the traditional seal material at the bottom - this can compress a great deal and should allow the door to open and close smoothly.

You need to make sure you don't get a material which absorbs water though, as it can hold water against the material of the door where it is attached.

Jack.

[robert lintott]

Thanks Jack , it needs to be a closed cell foam material , I will search Bob

[Alf Heseltine]

Bob, it may be better to fit the correct sill rubber seal available from JCS using the metal strip insert
as original method of fitting & the seal is also a 'finisher' for the sill so the look would not be right
with it missing.
Any issue of draft or water driving in could be solved using one of the ideas already offered, I would
advise against anything that would retain moisture.

Regards Alf.

[paul wilks]

As always these suggestions are very useful. Thank you to all who have contributed.
I will contact JCS re rubbers BUT (since I can't remember!) how does the metal strip secure the rubbers to the sill?
I know it's a daft question and might be obvious when I get the rubbers from JCS but for the life of me I just cannot remember!

Thanks

Paul

[Forumadmin]

Self tapping screws. Suggest you try to get stainless steel ones.

[robert lintott]

Paul,, the only suggestion I have is that the screws go horizontally into the vertical face of the sill . this is because the replacement sills on my Javelin have holes drilled in the vertical face which I assume are for the attachment of the rubber seals . It seems these holes were drilled during production but in my case no rubber seals were installed . The spares manual has some diagrams , page 30 , which are slightly helpful. best wishes Bob

[paul wilks]

Thanks everyone!

Paul