Later Rear Hub Removal Tool

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David Morris
Posts: 837
Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2006 9:23 am
Your interest in the forum: Jowett Javelins since 1964. Now a Jowett Stationary engine owner and club member since 1964.
Given Name: David
Location: Sunny Bristol

Later Rear Hub Removal Tool

Post by David Morris »

Hi there,

In a previous thread, Ian Howell very kindly mentioned that he had made up a tool for removing the later ( full hydraulic ) rear brake drums based on a standard BSP pipe coupler and blanking plug.

Ian thought that this was based on a 2" BSP coupler, but having been down to our local engineering shop, I can vouch that you would need a nominal 1.5" BSP pipe coupler. This ends up as 1.875" i/d and the one I found in stock screws nicely onto the threads provided by Jowett's on the centre of the rear hubs, just behind the securing nut.

It should be fairly easy to remove the hubs by either using a suitable blanking plug screwed into the outer end of the coupler as Ian mentions, or make up a tool by welding a plate across the open outer end of the coupler and fit a large nut and set screw set into the centre, with the nut welded onto the plate.

Thanks to Ian for a top tip!

Best wishes to all Jowetteer's for a Happy Christmas,

David
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ian Howell
Posts: 963
Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2006 10:46 am
Your interest in the forum: From 1962 to '63, CA Bradord LLG 125 (Repaired and used).
From 1966 to '67 Black deLuxe Javelin LDF 738 (Scrapped with broken chassis)
From 1967 to '87 Black de Luxe Javelin MKC 1 (later 6469TU). (Sold as non-runner with tons of spares, 1987)
From about 1980 to '87 ex WD Jowett stationary engine. (Sold on)
From 1966 to present, 1930 Long Four Fabric Saloon, Dark Blue / Black.
Taken in a part-repaired state to the 2010 Centenary Rally, returned to a roadworthy state by 2013.
Given Name: Ian
Location: Eastbourne, East Sussex, England
Contact:
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Post by ian Howell »

I have just revisited this item, and I thought the following might be helpful: -

I made my extractors by fitting a stock blanking plug in to the coupler and then drilled and tapped it about 5/8" or 3/4".

I used a standard 5/8" or 3/4" bolt with a full-length thread , turned a point on the thread end, and that was it!

At the time I had access to a big enough lathe and sets of taps, but following David's suggestion, it might work with a large ball bearing under the plug, or perhaps some packing - and a lot of grunt!

I seem to recall that once loosened, the hubs came off quite easily.

Hope this helps.

Ian H
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