Recommissioning 1929 long two

[Forumadmin]

The older fuel gauges were moving iron type where the iron armature attached to the pointer was attracted by two electro magnets positioned at full and empty marks. The magnet on empty mark is energised at all times but when the tank is full the tank sender is high resistance and puts a voltage across the full electro magnet pulling the pointer towards it. When empty the tank sender shorts the full magnet allowing the empty magnet to pull the pointer back. A resistance across the empty magnet coil provides current to the sender and empty magnet making the gauge fairly unaffected by supply voltage.

If you want to know more then 'Google' moving iron instruments.

[BarryCambs]

Thanks for that - I had a look and it does make sense now I think. I'm fascinated to know what the circuit board was for, so I will try and find out. The only thing that remains 6 volt is the windscreen wiper motor. There is no way the circuit board is man enough to supply that. I wonder if the other electromechanical box is maybe a voltage dropper for the wiper, as that does look fairly heavy duty.

The rather lovely braided cable has arrived for the new loom, so I'm keen to get on. This might be a silly question, but I am confused about the main beam arrangement. The offside lamp is a double filament large globe, which looks to be rated 35/35w. To get main beam, should both filaments be on together? If it is one or the other filament, I don't understand how main beam will be any different without the clever focusing of modern lights.

Barry

[Forumadmin]

The filaments are presumably at different heights thus changing the focus of the beam and providing a dip

[robert lintott]

Barry, My Austin 16/6 reg in 1930 has a dipping system which puts out the offside light , leaving the sidelights on , and I think this was common practice ,if not the law at that time ---it is still legal if it was an original feature . The near side reflector swivels with the action of a solenoid in the lamp , so that the beam is deflected down and to the left . Both bulbs are single filament .

The double filament bulb you have may be an attempt to dip the offside lamp , you may find one filament is placed so as to deflect the beam downwards as was practiced in cars after ww2---Javelin for example .This could have been original or a later DIY modification . I would advise against powering both filaments at once , could be spectacular ? Perhaps the near side lamp also has two filaments ? Bob

[BarryCambs]

Speaking to my father yesterday, he said his 1930s BSA three wheeler also just switched off the OS lamp, so I think you're right it was common practice. I think this probably had the dipping reflector removed at some stage, as the headlamps don't match, but the OS does have the twin filament lamp holder, so I'll just go with this. I plan to use a discreet change over relay so I can use the switch on the steering wheel.

I had a day on it yesterday and seem to be progressing well, with no real horrors found apart form the wiring.

When I took the rear brake drum off, they were completely full of oil. I had assumed I needed to change the seals anyway, but they were obviously leaking before it came off the road, as the entire drums are packed with what is now grease. However, I tried 2 different Clarke hub pullers, but neither fit as the centre of the hub is to deep and large in diameter. I have the same problem on the front hubs. I have seen the very helpful diagrams on Tony's webpage, but does anyone know of a puller which will definitely fit? Otherwise, I can make one up from his pictures I guess.

Does anyone have experience of how tight these hubs normally are?

[Jack]

Barry, worth a call to JCS on a Monday to investigate a puller - they have some specific tools, and from memory have pullers that fit, but you'd have to call to see if they had the exact one you need.

Jack.

[BarryCambs]

Thanks Jack. I need to ring them tomorrow for the seals, so I'll ask then.

[Tony Fearn]

Barry, worth a call to JCS on a Monday to investigate a puller

Hello again Barry. I've a feeling that you need to be in the Jowett Car Club to be able to access the services of the Club Spares programme.

I was looking in the 2013 membership list to see where you are in the country, but couldn't find your name or address.

Tony.

[BarryCambs]

Hi Tony

I assume you are looking at the hard copy that came via the post? I am definitely in there under East Anglia Section and I'm actually in Cambridge. I've already had good service form the spares section and invaluable advice from Ian Priestly. The managed to supply an exhaust system which was a real result, as I wasn't particularly looking forward to fabricating one.

[Tony Fearn]

Hello again Barry.

My apologies as I must have missed your name in the 'New members' list that Mo and Bob Holmes produce every month in the Jowetteer.
However, you'll notice that most of us on the JCC website use our given names, and that's where I went wrong.
I now have your surname from another source.
So, to ameliorate the situation, I have in my possession a hub puller as you've mentioned in a recent post.
You are most welcome to borrow it to remove all the hubs on the '29. It works on front and rear hubs.
It's heavy and the postage is rather expensive, but if anyone from your section is coming up to the Ex-employees meeting in August, and is willing to take it and deliver it to you, then you'll only have to pay the return postage. My address is in the list.
I have lent it out to a number of Jowetteers over the years as there doesn't seem to be many pre-war pullers around.

Let me know how you want to proceed, by Private Message if you wish, or my telephone number is in the membership list, which might be better.

Best wishes,

Tony.

[BarryCambs]

Hi Tony

This is actually my second year of membership which is why you won't have seen it under new members. It's just a bit embarrassing it's taken a year to get on with the car. My surname (Widmer) is no great secret, I just used my generic username when I set the account up and I'll look into if it can be changed.

Many thanks for the offer of the loan. Have you found the hubs are normally very tight? Mulling the situation over last night, I was wondering if I could come up with a long-term solution by fabricating something using you drawings, possible as a small batch if there was demand. In all the excitement of ordering the oil seals last night, I forgot to ask the spares officer if they have anything!

[Tony Fearn]

Hello Barry.

Yes sometimes the hubs are tight, but the beauty of this hub-puller is that you put it over the studs and put all 5 wheelnuts back on tightly, so the pull is even all the way round, and the only way the hub can come off is towards you, with no side slippage. Then you wind the centre screw in as far as possible until there's tension on it and clout the screw head with a lump hammer. If it doesn't come off the first time, then you'll probably be able to put a bit more turn on the screw and clout it again. It hasn't failed yet, but keep the blowtorch handy just in case.

Tony.

[BarryCambs]

Hi Tony

Thanks for the kind offer which I might still take you up on! I'm hoping I can find or make something to provide a permanent solution which can stay with the car. The problem with the 2 pullers I have tried is that the centre protruding part of the hub won't fit in the relatively shallow and cone shaped part.

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/produ ... hub-puller

I'm wondering if this will be a better bet:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271247904488? ... 1438.l2649

I'll double check the measurements, but it looks as if it could work. The seals have turned up from Jowett spares, but sick children mean I haven't had enough sleep to tackle them this weekend.

Barry

[BarryCambs]

I'm still making good progress and things are going back together rather than coming apart. The wiring is now finished and the new exhaust tee pipe from Jowett Spares slipped straight on. They have also supplied a new stainless silencer to replace the rusted out motor bike one it came with. Apparently, the new silencers have proved too loud for the salon cars, but I hope will suit the character of the open top car better.

I have a quick question regarding the throttle linkage. At the moment, the pedal rod just goes straight through a hole drilled in the wooden bulkhead, with no sort of support or bearings. This seems a little crude and not particularly conducive to a smooth throttle action. Is this right, or are there parts missing??

Many thanks, Barry

[Tony Fearn]

Hello Barry.

My 1934 saloon had a similar crude arrangement, but the circular accelerator pedal screws off the rod. I put a short length of 1/4" copper tubing through the floorboard, put the accelerator rod through it and re-attached the pedal.

This gives a bit more stability, and oiling it gives a smooth action.

Tony.