Early Javelin Restoration

[Chris Spencer]

Bob - Unsure if Peter has thought about seat belts yet but he is back in the UK for Easter so I will find out - I would think that the lower mounting would be better going through the floor and bolting to a plate that could be welded to the centre outrigger - has for the point on the B post - I will have to look a little deeper next time I am over at the workshop - it will not be easy as the trafficator rebate is just where the mounting point needs to be - so it could end up as a long belt coming again through the floor - so the chassis box could be used for the mounting - but then it would be a long shoulder belt that comes up the back of the seat - it would not really effective unless there was some type of retaining bracket monted to the top back of the front seat - otherwise you are down to lap belts / or a 4 point racing type harness which would just look well out of place - there is a specialist in the market who provides and fits belts for classics / vintage etc - link is below


http://www.quickfitsbs.com/classic_cars_seatbelts.php

[David Morris]

Hi All,

I have fitted retractable front seat belts to both our Javelins. To make secure anchorages for all the six lower mounting points I have used a length of 50mm box section with a 4mm wall that is fitted just behind the front seat mountings and runs across the width of the car, to almost meet the 'B' posts on each side. It sits quite nicely just in front of the 'hollow' formed in the forward section of the rear floor for the rear passenger's feet.

This box section has extensions at each end running forward alongside the outer ends of the front bench seat to carry the seat belt retractor boxes and the lower ends of the diagonal belt. The central belt 'sockets' that have the wire rope fixings are passed through the central armrest cavity to locate and bolt to the box section, the whole box section assembly being sprayed to match the carpet. The box section is bolted right through the longitudinal chassis box sections with long through bolts that pass through and down to the lower edge of the chassis boxes, with strengthening plates across the chassis box.

The only fittings that actually need to be on the 'B' posts are the top swivels. I have used strengthening plates on the outside of the 'B' posts, just below the gutter line but well above the trafficators, which are retained and are operational. The top mounting bolts for the swivels are passed through these plates and then through the 'B' post.

I know that this fitting scheme may not suit the purists or perhaps those more used to conventional modern car seat belt fittings, but it gives us the assurance that at least the mininium security we have is a very strong lap belt and the diagonal belt will be as strong as the 'B' post, which at the junction with the roof should be reasonably secure.

We feel happier with the belts fitted and they probably saved my wife's life last year when the passenger flew open whilst on the move during the scenic run and she was retained by her belt! Everything else that my wife had with her on and around the front seat flew out onto the verge, to the consternation of our colleagues following behind!

I could probably draw up the details of box section assembly if anyone wishes?

All the best,

David

[David Kemp]

Please do supply diagram or photos, as there is more than one of us who believes seat belts save lives.
It also allows my children to ride in a Jowett whether they like it or not (they don't)

[Forumadmin]

Fit a DVD player in the back and they will be more than happy. Note you will need to fit six sets of seat belts to maintain the 6 seater capacity!

[p.p.]

to get a fixing point in the front floor: fix the seat fixing to the main frame and so you will have a fixing point to the seat - the back fixing , will be at the back seat frame... with a strong hold to clip the seatbelt to it - nobody will be sitting at the back when i drive high speed rally......
very easy to remove and nobody will see it
peter

[Forumadmin]

Nobody, apart from you, will be sitting in the front either!

[p.p.]

OK .......i got the hint

my idea:
full harness - 3 point - automatic reel - with a long adjustable webbing for the bench seat's .... so one person got a single seats in the back row - the rest for lots of stuff's, food, drinks,cheese and golf bags and and and.....

[Chris Spencer]

It's been a while since the last update but it is busy time of year for me in the day job - none the less some progress has been made:
The closing panel was made up and the inner face of it sprayed with a zinc rich weld through primer

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Welded into place

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I managed to spot weld the two skins together where they met - this has added quite a lot of strength to the area in question

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[Chris Spencer]

The repairs to the lower D post were quite complex and required the making up of several sections in order to replicate the factory original - the outrigger is attched to the bottom of the D post - the new outrigger was trial fitted and the old rusted section of the D post was checked as a pattern for the new section

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First of the sections getting welded in

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[Chris Spencer]

With the rear of D post in place I now had some reference points to work from and the front of the D post could now be removed - it looks quite solid in the image

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But same old bodge its a just a bucket full of rusty metal thats been plated over

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[Keith Clements]

Whilst Chris was welding I tried to figure out how to insert the the O rings in the upper link on the front suspension. I used a spare removed from the SA years ago to figure it out.

1. Removed the bolt (52716)
2. Removing the upper link (50279) from the upper link bracket (50292) really cannot be done without damaging the seals (50496) as the sealing sleeve (50990) and pin (52716) that locates the trunnion washer 50302 are impossible to remove until the assembly is dismantled.
3. So having forced the upper link (50279) from the upper link bracket (50292) apart, the retainer (50298) was prized off and then the bolt (52716) with a nut reattached was used to press out the sealing sleeve (50990) to reveal the pin (52716) which was punched out.

The disassembled components with new seal are shown here.



Having figured that out the components were cleaned and grit blasted before being painted with primer.

[Chris Spencer]

The end of sill had to be removed once the lead had been removed as this had also been overplated

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Again a new section was formed and welded in

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Rear of the D post section - if left this would just continued to rust from the inside out

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[Chris Spencer]

Front of the D post now in place and the outrigger again trial fitted

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The closing section on the D post now in place and spot welded to the front of D post as it would have been originally

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[Chris Spencer]

Now the outrigger can be be welded into place to the chassis rail / bottom of the D post & sill

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A closing section is made for the front face of the outrigger and welded / trimmed in

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Outrigger & lower D post completed

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[Chris Spencer]

The rear face of the D post had suffered at higher level

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Having been the subject of previous repairs

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