TOE-IN FOR EARLY PRE-WAR CARS

Tony Fearn · Post by **Tony Fearn** » Thu Dec 21, 2006 2:20 am

I've dismantled all the steering on "Mary Ellen" my 1934 Short Saloon, and have renewed all the steering balls on the drop arms, steering box, and tie bar, and the brass cup bushes associated with the balls as well as both brass bushes in the steering box.

When it's all painted, greased and put back together, I will have to check the toe-in to stop the front tyres scrubbing away. I know that the toe-in should be not more than 1/8th of an inch, but how and where do I take the measurements. Do I do it on the inner front wheel rims, or on the tyres. I presume the axle has to be jacked up.

Also, can anyone remember which 'Jowetteer' magazine had details of re-newing the eccentric brass bush in the early pre-war steering box column steady tube? I vaguely remember that there was a technical drawing of the same.

Thanks in anticipation,

Tony.

P.S. - Another milestone - the 50th posting on the pre war section.

Keith Andrews · Post by **Keith Andrews** » Thu Dec 21, 2006 3:46 am

I know nothing about pre war or javelins etc...
There is another thread in the Bradford section re steering, and includes wheel alignment...
I have done toe ins etc myself, both on American, and english ....
Then checked against newly zeroed computerised aliignment machines, with guys who DO know what they are doing (Important)...
Each time I have been close...but not close enough.
Sure I have had them run nice, but being right on certainly makes a bigger diff than most realise.
Professinal Alignments are not expensive, and worth every penny for tyre wear and nice diving.

Bryan Walker · Post by **Bryan Walker** » Thu Dec 21, 2006 5:16 am

Hi Tony,
'Modern Motor repair and overhauling(1933)' gives the following.

"The front wheels should 'toe in' 1/8 in. in the front. This can be checked by setting the wheels straight and measuring the distance between them from rim to rim at the height of the hub. Take this in front of the axle and behind. The measurement behind should be 1/8 in. more than the front, thus allowing that amount of 'toe in'. A small amount of error can be corrected on the track rod, but if it is excessive, further examination should be made for possible bent steering arms or stub axles due to accidental damage."

Hope this helps
Bryan

Tony Fearn · Post by **Tony Fearn** » Thu Dec 21, 2006 3:11 pm

Thanks for the info folks, I shall proceed manually at first, and knowing where and what to do is a great help. I'm sure the former measurements will be 'out', now I've re-newed all the worn bits

Has anyone ever had a vintage, pre-war or Bradford toe-in aligned professionally with modern day computerised instruments, and did it make a noticable difference as Keith mentions?

Regards,

Tony.

Keith Andrews · Post by **Keith Andrews** » Thu Dec 21, 2006 7:14 pm

I do suggest to set up manually, not just yours but anyone, then send off.
My reasoning is the same as why I did...just see how close I could get it.

You mention rebuilding the steering box...is it the same sa the post war boxes. U mention re bushing but not machining or 'cold' metal spraying the shaft (Al/Bronze/Co) and reaming bushes to suit.
The habit for post production servicing was to use grease rather than orginal 90 gear oil...Dont use grease, the shaft will wear out very quickly. Gease was used because there was a grease nipple...a grease gun with 90 oil in is what was meant to be used to service...I remove the nipple and top up with a pump oil can...thu hasnt needed topping up yet with the neopream O ring seal in the bottom...direct replacement for the felt seal without any machining required.
Did u replace (or turn 90* ) worm pin?