Update please.

[AlanBartlett]

Yesterday evening was very successful maiden voyage of the car on the nice sunny evening, performed exceptionally well even when taking it easy. climbing hills in steadly no miss fire or spluttering, power wise seemed pretty good even though i was going gently, managed to climb a steady hill in 3rd which was quite impressed about, towards the end of the run seemed to be running alot better. Slight issue with dirty fuel/fuel filter but apart from that all went off without a hitch. Quite impressed with the performance, the oil pressure holding between 25 and 30 all the way, speedo is reading way off, is there any way of adjusting the speedo or is this a job for a specialist? Perhaps speedo graph or a place similar?

[Tony Fearn]

Slight issue with dirty fuel/fuel filter but apart from that all went off without a hitch.

oil pressure holding between 25 and 30 all the way,

speedo is reading way off, is there any way of adjusting the speedo or is this a job for a specialist? Perhaps speedo graph or a place similar?

Hi Alan,

Have you a modern fuel filter in-line before the AC pump/filter bowl? This will remove most of the crud, but it's surprising just how much colloidal deposit settles in the glass filter bowl.

25 - 30 sounds good for the oil pressure when hot, but you'll remember that it can be varied if necessary with the pressure relief valve at the back of the sump if necessary.

Remove the speedo and squirt some WD40 in the back where the inner cable square end fits, and using a nail, filed square to fit into the back of the speedo and into a power drill chuck, carefully spin the chuck (don't overdo it) in very short bursts.

Remove the speedometer cable itself from the other end at the gearbox. Using WD40 again, squirt copious amounts between the casing and the cable, leave for half an hour, shaking by hand occasionally, and then, standing in the middle of an empty field, or similar, whizz the cable around your head like Crocodile Dundee did when calling for help in the Outback.

Take an oilcan with you and when all the WD40 has disappeared, do the same with some engine oil.

Alternatively, dismantle the inner cable from the casing and clean the parts before re-assembling. Check that the winding of the cable strands are still ok and none have broken. These of course will drag on the inner face of the case if one or more strands are broken.

Tony.

[AlanBartlett]

Hi Tony,

Ive been using the later type pump, which ive put into the line an inline fuel filter, this was what caused the issues the yesterday evening, as the colour had gone from a light yellow to a dark brown, just shows how much crud has been in the tank, I think its mainly because its been standing for the past four months with petrol in not being used. So the next thing is to properly drain out the tank, and flush it through as best as I can.

The oil pressure ive been keeping constant eye on and still staying within that region, although now on tickover when hot drops down to about 25.

Also the speedo i had a part today to see if anything was stuck, which every seems to be ok, have lubricated also, and on the run this evening seemed to be more responsive have yet to check accuracy, but for the first time managed to get over 30mph according to the speedo. Perhaps I should get a Donk on it to sort it out

Took the car out again this eve for another 10 miles along the same route seemingly performing even better still taking it easy at this point, but seems to be improvement or I'm just getting more used to the car again one or the other.

[AlanBartlett]

Well Ive now covered a little over 120 miles now, have done a few runs with the sat nav and the speedo is fairly accurate, surpsingly. Am also now reaching into the 35 40s along straight flats which is seemingly going well. With the last couple runs requiring no maintence. Its seemingly becoming more and more reliable with every run. Have a few shows during september then after that will be going through a list i have of things I'd like to improve.







A few pics out and about a friend of mine conviently brought along his camera.

P.s i hope the images are not too big

[Tony Fearn]

Well Alan,

She looks a treat, and a credit to your persistence to get the car back to the state it was in when your Pa was running her. The colour scheme is spot on.

Regular maintenance is the order of the day from now on. Don't shirk this responsibility, so that when you go out in her, you'll be able to get back.

I'm looking forward to seeing you all at Basingstoke. I sent the deposit off to Julie Blow, (for Hilary and me), a couple of days ago.

Regards,

Tony.

[ian Howell]

Alan et al: -

Great to see just what can be done with limited resources and a bit of perseverance! I've just been looking at my historic notes and I see that I recorded this car's colours as 'Grey/Magnolia' when I saw it (with your Dad of course) at Cheltenham in 1969 (I think?).

That seems as strange colour combination but did I simply get it all wrong? (Not the first time!).

[AlanBartlett]

Ian yes it was an off whitish colour back inthe late 60s 70s, Ill dig out a photo and put it up a bit later.

Another reason for my post, does anyone know the position of the door rubbers on a pre war, where do they screw into or attach?. Things are getting rather clacaty with the doors not being butted up against something rubber to absorb movement.

[Tony Fearn]

Does anyone know the position of the door rubbers on a pre war, where do they screw into or attach?. Things are getting rather clacaty with the doors not being butted up against something rubber to absorb movement.

Door buffer edited for JowettTalk.jpg

Alan,

On 'Mary Ellen' there are a couple of recesses routed out of the 'A' post into which fit the buffers as shown above. The edge of the buffer is positioned so that when the door is closed, the outside of the door is flush with the rest of the panels.

The thin bit in the diagram with dots on it is the wrapped-round edge of the windscreen and scuttle panels.

I can't help with the rear doors, short saloons don't have them!

Hope this helps.

Tony.

[ian Howell]

Well now! There's a thing!

I have been trying for ages (and then trying again!) to get the front doors to close evenly at top and bottom - now I know how - maybe?

Does the same method apply for the 1930 and earlier cars?

There was no trace of these stops on the remains of my car although the brass/steel wedges were still in place.

Like I have said before, the devil is in the detail!

[AlanBartlett]

Its actually made a big difference into how the door shuts, have only just completed the drivers door for at the moment, but when you shut it, its surprising how much stiffer its made the door shut structure, and holding the door in place. no movement at all, where as before it would clack and move but now its solid.

[AlanBartlett]

I have sorted out the vibration, which was caused by the layrub coupling bush had pulled through, aquiring a new one through jcs. I am very very surprised.

Having just done a short trip up the road and back, its so smooth, like butter. Surprising how much difference the coupling made along with the door buffers, its now getting to be a very smooth ride, rather than the constant vibratrion throughout at speeds. Am again very surprised how much difference these few little things have made.

[Tony Fearn]

Well now! There's a thing!
I have been trying for ages (and then trying again!) to get the front doors to close evenly at top and bottom - now I know how - maybe?
Does the same method apply for the 1930 and earlier cars?

I have struggled in the past to line-up the top and bottom of the doors vertically with the body frame.

In both cars, the Short Saloon and the Flying Fox I used the same method of adjustment. On both cars it was the bottom corner of the doors nearest the A-post that needed ‘taking in’. It’s not a ‘purist’ fixing method Ian!! The inside trim covers the remedy though.

Obtain a strip of 18s gauge steel about 1 – 1.5” wide long enough to reach from the door’s waist line at the hinged edge, to the corner of the door bottom nearest to the A-post.

Cut the ends to shape so that they are inboard of the edge of the wooden door frame by ¼” or so.

Make two screw holes at both ends: you’re going to screw into the door frame on the inside under the door trim. You’ll need another pair of hands for the next bit.

With the door on the car, place the trimmed strip from waist-line to door corner (on the inside of the door of course), and screw the waist-line end of the strip to the door frame.

Taking extreme care not to shatter the glass window if it’s in-situ, and with hands at the top and bottom of the door, twist the leading edge of the door inwards from the top to bottom, to pull-in the corner to where you think the door edge should be when closed

Whilst in that position, and the door edge is under tension, the second pair of hands puts screws in the corner holes. This should fix the front corner in position and prevent it springing back.

scan0001.jpg

Tony.

[AlanBartlett]

Well having now covered a little over 700 miles since Basingstoke in may. I am still very impressed with how the car is running and how well it seems to be doing. Ive been to many shows over the summer period and july was pretty much a show every weekend. In between I have been keeping an eye on the engine and various other things like brakes and steering during usage adjusting as as and when. I am quite enjoying using the car now. The fettling seems to have settled down too as its reliablity has been proven this summer traveling around. Ive also been doing a bit to the body work again. As a little time after Basingstoke I repainted both the front wings in gloss black cellulose. And having this week gotten around to the flatting off and polishing, Am very impressed with the results. They are not concours but I can see a mirror imagine them which Im very happy with. So perhaps now in the off season as well as few more components Id like to sort out I can perhaps have another attempt at painting the rest of the car. I do very much like the finish to cellulose such a deep glossy shine.

[Jack]

Alan, you should be proud of those wings - they are visibly better than when I last got up close to them at the NEC, though they were entirely passable it is great when you can see your face in them, seems to draw people in at shows etc, and I suspect a good finish keeps the rain and dirt from sitting in the paint and affecting the finish. Have you put some wax on them, or is that the bare finish after painting and polishing?

I think the wings were the noticeable thing, the rest of the body looked pretty good and is probably sortable with a good T-cut - the odd run here and there is fixable, and don't forget these cars weren't pristine when they left the factory, so there is such a thing as being "too good".

Great progress, and really great to see everyone chipping in with feedback, their own problems and ideas.

Jack.

[Tony Fearn]

Regular maintenance is the order of the day from now on. Don't shirk this responsibility, so that when you go out in her, you'll be able to get back.

I'm glad that you've taken the advice about regular maintenance, and are experiencing the benefits. The other things that needs constant greasing are the king-pin bushes. As often as you can will extend their life. They're rather difficult to replace.

The wings look good, in fact so good that I'll polish Mary Ellen's again tomorrow!

Tony.