Distributors
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I have a Lucas distributor. It has three lots of numbers stamped on the body. Fisrt is '952' which I believe means September 1952. Next is 'AJ41' and lastly, probably the model number, is '40317 A' and an arrow indication anticlockwise rotation viewed from the points end. Can anyone tell me the model name, like DM2 of D45 etc. etc. And has anyone the vaumun advance curves for this at various RPM's? Is it a diect replacement for my worn DM2?
Chris Cole from sunny (!) north Gloucestershire.
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Distributors
Chris, in the first instance visit www.telusplanet.net/~chichm/tech/lucas.pdf
According to them its a DM2P4. The site also gives other data related to the distributor which is listed as for the Javelin and Jupiter
Any help?
According to them its a DM2P4. The site also gives other data related to the distributor which is listed as for the Javelin and Jupiter
Any help?
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Distributors
Hello Chris.
I'm in uncharted waters where Javelins are concerned, but I followed the link in Paul's posting, and it came up with a very interesting list. I note what Paul said, but if you go down to page 8 on the list, service no. 40795A, model 25D4 ccw rotation is said (on the extreme rhs of the list) to be a recommended alternative to 40115H and 40317A for the Jowett Javelin.
Regards,
Tony
I'm in uncharted waters where Javelins are concerned, but I followed the link in Paul's posting, and it came up with a very interesting list. I note what Paul said, but if you go down to page 8 on the list, service no. 40795A, model 25D4 ccw rotation is said (on the extreme rhs of the list) to be a recommended alternative to 40115H and 40317A for the Jowett Javelin.
Regards,
Tony
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Distributors
Paul, Many, many thanks for the Lucas informaion. The pdf file holds over 3,000 distributors - amazing. I found the two that I have and was able to see that thy were both DM2P4 models with the same advance charateristics. Thansk to for Tony's supprt.
Chris Cole from sunny (!) north Gloucestershire.
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Distributor
In April this year I fitted a Lucas 41427 ( 45D ) distributor to my Jupiter. See Jowett Talk on Jupiter. This unit works well with added power and smooth running. The only disadvantage of this unit is the lack of a fine setting Advance and Retard system. Apart from that I am very satisfied with this unit....
Drummond
Drummond
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http://jowett.org/jowettnet/dt/tech/Dis ... ibutor.htm
Why not search on jowett.org first!!!!!! It has been there for about 7 years!!!
Why not search on jowett.org first!!!!!! It has been there for about 7 years!!!
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Has anyone looked at recurving cenrteifical and vac advance vac response pionts range to suit moden petrol?
No need for a dyno to run a ping curve or performace if u have a hill to test on, a handfull of diff weight springs out of random old dizzys at the wreckers, a in car vac gauge, and a file, hand vac pump to establish the vac adv canister vac range, timing light and tach.
Tuning a dizzy is like tuning a carb, what works on 1 engine will be a little different to the next engine.
There are some very dramatic economy and performance gains to be made even on a stocker engine.
Looking at the specs (I assume these are Cam degs not crank) lighter springs, maybe widening the cent advance range, change of vac advance canister degs and vac range.
No need for a dyno to run a ping curve or performace if u have a hill to test on, a handfull of diff weight springs out of random old dizzys at the wreckers, a in car vac gauge, and a file, hand vac pump to establish the vac adv canister vac range, timing light and tach.
Tuning a dizzy is like tuning a carb, what works on 1 engine will be a little different to the next engine.
There are some very dramatic economy and performance gains to be made even on a stocker engine.
Looking at the specs (I assume these are Cam degs not crank) lighter springs, maybe widening the cent advance range, change of vac advance canister degs and vac range.
My Spelling is Not Incorrect...It's 'Creative'
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Many distributors on Jowetts are either not the right ones or are worn. The result is that the spark occurs in a random fashion around or about where it should do. The first thing to do is to recondition the dissie so that the spark always occurs within 1 degree at 3000 revs. An oscilloscope or stobe helps here; although, be careful, as some timing lights with some electronic ignition systems give incorrect readings. Found this out on the Allfrey Jup!
Next check you have a good spark of the correct polarity through the coil.
Next wait for a dark, damp night and make sure none of that spark is leaking to parts it should not do. It can be like a lightning show under the bonnet with poor cap, leads or plug sockets.
Now check the advance is no more than the maximum (20deg +/- 2deg for Javelin/Jup at crank) at 3000 rpm and that static is TDC +3 deg/- 0deg. If it is then I humbly suggest your dissie is not set correctly. A quick check on the dissie cam should show a 10deg mark (20 deg at crank).
If all this is OK then start playing with vacuum or advance curves. Springs and weights can be altered. The cam can be re-profiled with weld. I check mine on the bench with a drill on the dissie drive shaft and a disk protractor to show the advance.
Different vacuum units can be fitted. 5 degree(at crank) is standard. I think from memory. Check by sucking or using a vacuum pump and gauge.
Anybody know what the vacuum codes mean in the Lucas table?
You also may like to experiment with different size vacuum pipe, reservoirs in the vacuum circuit or just disconnect the thing like the racing boys do! I do not recommend the latter for road use.
Next check you have a good spark of the correct polarity through the coil.
Next wait for a dark, damp night and make sure none of that spark is leaking to parts it should not do. It can be like a lightning show under the bonnet with poor cap, leads or plug sockets.
Now check the advance is no more than the maximum (20deg +/- 2deg for Javelin/Jup at crank) at 3000 rpm and that static is TDC +3 deg/- 0deg. If it is then I humbly suggest your dissie is not set correctly. A quick check on the dissie cam should show a 10deg mark (20 deg at crank).
If all this is OK then start playing with vacuum or advance curves. Springs and weights can be altered. The cam can be re-profiled with weld. I check mine on the bench with a drill on the dissie drive shaft and a disk protractor to show the advance.
Different vacuum units can be fitted. 5 degree(at crank) is standard. I think from memory. Check by sucking or using a vacuum pump and gauge.
Anybody know what the vacuum codes mean in the Lucas table?
You also may like to experiment with different size vacuum pipe, reservoirs in the vacuum circuit or just disconnect the thing like the racing boys do! I do not recommend the latter for road use.
Many distributors on Jowetts are either not the right ones or are worn. The result is that the spark occurs in a random fashion around or about where it should do. The first thing to do is to recondition the dissie so that the spark always occurs within 1 degree at 3000 revs
In reply to this bit first. Be careful more to it than just a recon distributor!
Prcedure first.
Check the wear through the dist drive ie back lash wear on the drive gear and the offset dist shaft joint.
Then check the dwell for variation to determin the state of the distributor bushes and cam lobes etc, this must be done with the vac disconected.
If ok proceed with the advance curve at various revs.
More to follow when time permits.
In reply to this bit first. Be careful more to it than just a recon distributor!
Prcedure first.
Check the wear through the dist drive ie back lash wear on the drive gear and the offset dist shaft joint.
Then check the dwell for variation to determin the state of the distributor bushes and cam lobes etc, this must be done with the vac disconected.
If ok proceed with the advance curve at various revs.
More to follow when time permits.
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Recurving on a dyno takes a couple hrs, assuming one doesnt have to machine or alter anything to change range and I would think, looking at the old curves modern gas there would be some both in the dizzy and vac advance.
Note all Degs here are crank not dizzy degs.
Centrifical:
Recurving on the road, one can expect several weeks of changes and trials to get spot on.
At the end...it is worthwhile.
Basically one establishes the piont of faint ping at a range of rpm by advancing the dizzy without vac advance under WoT
Then create the curve in the dizzy, droped back 2 or 3 degees.
The vechile is loaded (dyno or hill) and timed up a hill, usually retarding the curve to get optuim times.
A piont to note, idle advance is not important unless u cant get a smooth idle or have hard starting. The advance moving is the important part, hence why when setting timin it should be done at full advance rpm rather than idle.
Vac Advance:
Establish cruise engine vac and off cruise (1/3 to 1/2 throttle) this is the vac range the vac adv unit should be working at.
Generally setting the degs of advance in the vac advance to 3 deg below the ping curve will give close to optimium economy.
You will end up with a cent advance coming off intial adv around 800rpm, pulling fast to around 1800 rpm , rounding off slightly but still climbing to 28 to 36 degs at 2800 to 3300 rpm where it is all in.
The vac advance could be anywhere depending on many factors in the engine like cam profile that effect the working vac range of the engine.
Total vac degs could be anywhere between 5 and 15 degs. (total advance 32 to 52 degs.
Machining of the arm slot, or adding adjustable stops top and bottom of the slot adjusts the working vac range and the deg range of the vac adv unit. Even then one may have to dig thru a pile of units to get one that is suitable to modify.
If there is not enough deg advance in the dizzy to get a good idle/easy start and full advance, one can use manifold rather than ported vac from above the butterflys...I prefer using manfold vac anyway.
A pionts to note,
the carb has to be in good condition and no leaks like around butterfly bushes.
The simplest way to establish if the dizzy is in condition is a timing light with repeatable rpm/advance numbers and no wandering of the advance in the curve and top of the curve at rpms above when the adv is all in.
The are several types of springs, lite heavy and sloted.
Sloted have a long hook, that doesnt engage at low rpm, so the weights swing out quick, then hook up slowing rate.
In most cases a dizzy can be set without adding mass to the weights.
Too light a springs or a light/sloted, at idle will cause the engine to speed up and slow down as it runs out of gas on the idle curuits in the carb.
Its a learning curve, lot of messing around, time consuming, often frustrating and confusing...hence not something the classic car enthusist under takes...Still there is no reason why it cant be done.
And the rewards are very satisfing.
Note all Degs here are crank not dizzy degs.
Centrifical:
Recurving on the road, one can expect several weeks of changes and trials to get spot on.
At the end...it is worthwhile.
Basically one establishes the piont of faint ping at a range of rpm by advancing the dizzy without vac advance under WoT
Then create the curve in the dizzy, droped back 2 or 3 degees.
The vechile is loaded (dyno or hill) and timed up a hill, usually retarding the curve to get optuim times.
A piont to note, idle advance is not important unless u cant get a smooth idle or have hard starting. The advance moving is the important part, hence why when setting timin it should be done at full advance rpm rather than idle.
Vac Advance:
Establish cruise engine vac and off cruise (1/3 to 1/2 throttle) this is the vac range the vac adv unit should be working at.
Generally setting the degs of advance in the vac advance to 3 deg below the ping curve will give close to optimium economy.
You will end up with a cent advance coming off intial adv around 800rpm, pulling fast to around 1800 rpm , rounding off slightly but still climbing to 28 to 36 degs at 2800 to 3300 rpm where it is all in.
The vac advance could be anywhere depending on many factors in the engine like cam profile that effect the working vac range of the engine.
Total vac degs could be anywhere between 5 and 15 degs. (total advance 32 to 52 degs.
Machining of the arm slot, or adding adjustable stops top and bottom of the slot adjusts the working vac range and the deg range of the vac adv unit. Even then one may have to dig thru a pile of units to get one that is suitable to modify.
If there is not enough deg advance in the dizzy to get a good idle/easy start and full advance, one can use manifold rather than ported vac from above the butterflys...I prefer using manfold vac anyway.
A pionts to note,
the carb has to be in good condition and no leaks like around butterfly bushes.
The simplest way to establish if the dizzy is in condition is a timing light with repeatable rpm/advance numbers and no wandering of the advance in the curve and top of the curve at rpms above when the adv is all in.
The are several types of springs, lite heavy and sloted.
Sloted have a long hook, that doesnt engage at low rpm, so the weights swing out quick, then hook up slowing rate.
In most cases a dizzy can be set without adding mass to the weights.
Too light a springs or a light/sloted, at idle will cause the engine to speed up and slow down as it runs out of gas on the idle curuits in the carb.
Its a learning curve, lot of messing around, time consuming, often frustrating and confusing...hence not something the classic car enthusist under takes...Still there is no reason why it cant be done.
And the rewards are very satisfing.
My Spelling is Not Incorrect...It's 'Creative'
Basically one establishes the piont of faint ping at a range of rpm by advancing the dizzy without vac advance under WoT
Then create the curve in the dizzy, droped back 2 or 3 degees.
The vechile is loaded (dyno or hill) and timed up a hill, usually retarding the curve to get optuim times.
Reply to above.
Beware.
This can be all wrong if pinging occurs prematurely due to some carbon build up on just one cylinder ie oil carbon!
Also localised heating under test due to other probs and there can be many on a Jup Jav engine!
Don't forget the test for points [floating binding etc] and many other probs that can make an ass out of what can appear to be a simple method of setting up.
Keith A. what point tension ounces should the gauge show for the Jav Jup?
Then create the curve in the dizzy, droped back 2 or 3 degees.
The vechile is loaded (dyno or hill) and timed up a hill, usually retarding the curve to get optuim times.
Reply to above.
Beware.
This can be all wrong if pinging occurs prematurely due to some carbon build up on just one cylinder ie oil carbon!
Also localised heating under test due to other probs and there can be many on a Jup Jav engine!
Don't forget the test for points [floating binding etc] and many other probs that can make an ass out of what can appear to be a simple method of setting up.
Keith A. what point tension ounces should the gauge show for the Jav Jup?
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Someone wrote in the Jowettteeer an article on dissie springs. I must look at the index on Jowett.org...........
http://jowett.org/jowettnet/dt/library/ ... _index.htm
................................
Distributors (White) 2002 Feb Page 08
Amazing.
I will scan in for our overseas members.
http://jowett.org/jowettnet/dt/library/ ... _index.htm
................................
Distributors (White) 2002 Feb Page 08
Amazing.
I will scan in for our overseas members.
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DISTRIBUTORS (of the electrical kind!)
My distributor was discovered to be in terminal decline and I set about finding a replacement - and here are some of my finings that I pass on for further comments.
Most people recommend a replacement from a Mini - but “which Mini distributor suits the Jowett?â€
My distributor was discovered to be in terminal decline and I set about finding a replacement - and here are some of my finings that I pass on for further comments.
Most people recommend a replacement from a Mini - but “which Mini distributor suits the Jowett?â€
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RubishBeware. ?
Yes...the engine has to be in good condition ie carb etc, so at most one would have normal carbon build up...this is not enough to cause pemature ping..IF it did the curve would be established ping maybe a little lower or in other words closer to the final curve anyway...so the point is irrelivant.This can be all wrong if pinging occurs prematurely due to some carbon build up on just one cylinder ie oil carbon!
In Therory a highly carboned engine in effect has a higher compression...this aspect can influnece the final curve within a couple of degrees..in practice the difference is minor and can be adjusted simply by moving the curve up or down a couple of degs (advance/retard the intial) if the engine is de coked.
Tension is not relivent to a car model but relivant to the model and geometry the points of the dizzy used. Any dizzy can be interchanged so long as rotation, shaft, and drive gears ar correct, the latter canbe interchanged with the stock vechlie dizzy if shafts are the same...these can thenbe recurved to suit the engine.Keith A. what point tension ounces should the gauge show for the Jav Jup
I have not recurved a Jowett Dizzy to date...I have recurved many dizzys HEI and pionts over the yrs, track/offshore and street applications on dyno and street. One of these a Rookie took out the NTH . Sth Isand, National, and Auckland championships in top 3 places in dirt track Street stock class a couple of yrs back.
Like most engines there is nothing exceptional about the jowett engines to make it unique in respect to Tuning.
My Spelling is Not Incorrect...It's 'Creative'
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I have not yet found my treatise on setting up the DM2 for the Marathon rallies and race seasons. But here are a few points from memory.
Bearings and cam were checked to give an even dwell. You need to get within +- 1degree at crank.
The worn end stop was welded up and filed down to give 20 degree max advance.
Springs were adjusted by shortening or stretching to give desired ramp changes on the 'curve'. Ideally I would have bought new springs which subsequently I found are available. The curve is actually two step changes where each spring comes in.
Weights could also be changed but I did not do this.
Car was taken to dyno tuner who checked power output and spark on oscilloscope. You can tell by looking at the trace whether the spark is firing at the correct time. Settled on 21 degree advance.
We tuned the carbs and got nearly 5% more power without standard air filter and hyperbolic input throat. Later replaced with racing air filters.
Never did get around to camshaft changes on the dyno although the car was already on a modified profile cam.
For competition the car is generally either on or off and in the high rev range outside the dissie curve so the curve is not that important. On the road the more accurate curve would help below 2000 revs.
Bearings and cam were checked to give an even dwell. You need to get within +- 1degree at crank.
The worn end stop was welded up and filed down to give 20 degree max advance.
Springs were adjusted by shortening or stretching to give desired ramp changes on the 'curve'. Ideally I would have bought new springs which subsequently I found are available. The curve is actually two step changes where each spring comes in.
Weights could also be changed but I did not do this.
Car was taken to dyno tuner who checked power output and spark on oscilloscope. You can tell by looking at the trace whether the spark is firing at the correct time. Settled on 21 degree advance.
We tuned the carbs and got nearly 5% more power without standard air filter and hyperbolic input throat. Later replaced with racing air filters.
Never did get around to camshaft changes on the dyno although the car was already on a modified profile cam.
For competition the car is generally either on or off and in the high rev range outside the dissie curve so the curve is not that important. On the road the more accurate curve would help below 2000 revs.
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