Rear Axle Link

[David Morris]

Hi everyone,

Can I offer a word of warning? At the Rally this year our car suffered the total failure of the N/S rear axle link, part number 50261. This must have snapped on the way to the rally, as it was fine at my pre-rally inspection before we left home. It broke about 2" from the chassis pivot and it looked as if internal corrosion was the cause.

Fortunately, the local garage that were on stand-by for the rally were able to plate and weld the link to a good standard in an hour. Excellent service! We were then ready for the scenic run the following day.

I mention this because it is a comparatively weak composite assembly, made from two pressings, and water can easily get between the pressings and you would be none the wiser, until it fails. It was originally welded by Jowetts along the top and bottom seams, but these may allow water to enter unseen? The original material must only be around 16SWG when new and corrosion reduces this to paper thickness!

I shall be replacing mine with stronger replacements, as there is no real reason why the link should not be tubular or even made from square-section steel.

Can I recommend that you look very carefully at yours? Fortunately, when mine was in two and unknown to me on the Rally field, this was spotted by eagle-eyed concours judges ( Thanks folks! We were glad we entered! ). However, it would be worth a careful safety check, especially with the impeding dropping of the MoT, and perhaps you might consider changing the two links for stronger versions before they fail like mine, in the space of a few miles! By an odd coincidence, I had two replacements at home, bought I think from JCS or their predecessors years ago for our other Javelin. They are fabricated from round section steel tube and look very substantial.

Take care and all the best,

David

[Keith Clements]

Aren't you glad I found it when doing the concours judging! Luckily I am still active enough to crawl under the car to look at the works rather than just the paintwork and chrome.

For the African Marathon I fitted extra strong lower links which have no chance of failing.

[ian Howell]

I had exactly the same problem on my second Javelin in about 1975. I was in a position to manufacture replacements and I took the 'tubular' route.

However, I did seriously think of 'bashing' replicas from sheet metal, welding the seams and then welding in a 'U' shaped piece at each end. The bashing would probably only need a block of hardwood with the right depth of groove as a former, and the welding would not be difficult - given an ordinary DIY MIG welder.

NOTE: -

From memory, the hole for the fixing/pivot bolt has a 'notch' on one side for a 'peg' under the head of the bolt to prevent rotation.

[paul wilks]

Hmm. Makes you think, doesn't it?

Many years ago our former president and Jowett guru Roy Braddock from Marple advised me to drill two holes in the tubes of the links at the upper end and fill them with oil and then seal the holes with self tapping screws. I did this and regularly pull down on the tubes to test their strength.
However.... and just in case- does anyone know whether replacement links are available from JCS and whether they are of a modified more substantial design?

Thanks

Paul

[paul wilks]

I forgot to ask, David, when the local garage at the rally plated and welded the link, did they do so with the link in position or was it removed from the car? Just wondering!

Paul

[David Morris]

Hi Paul,

The garage welded them in place on the car, as the failure was sufficiently far enough away from the end bush for this not to be affected by the welding. However, it was a tricky welding job, as it is never easy to weld upside-down.

I do have some spares at home here. I bought them years ago for our green Javelin and it might have been before JCS really got going. However, they are made from round steel tube and look much stronger that the original ones. The only problem with them is that they are slightly different lengths!

Personally, I think I shall fabricate some myself from square section tube, which will be easier to weld than round tube. I already have some original metalastic bushes and shall get some round tube to take these for the axle end. There is a stock size tube of 42.4mm od and 4mm wall thickness and the id of this tube should then just about match the 35mm od of the bushes. I may have to heat the tube and freeze the bushes to get them to fit well!

All the best,

David

[TedAllen]

I have a couple of lower links in my spares ' department '. I'm not sure where they came from but it was pre JCS time...possibly Braddocks.

They are very substantial and are made of square tubing. I haven't needed them yet but it's good to know they're there if needed.

Ted

[Forumadmin]

If JCS do not have then I think Bill Lock may have. I got mine from Ken Braddock.

[Drummond Black]

Common Fault I have broke a few on the Javelin, however the ones on the Jupiter are still pressings types and appear to be sound. I made replacements from machined ends and square tube for the Javelin. I still have a modified one in the workshop. Do you think I should add it to the "on board" spares in the Jup. ?

Drummond