Starting problems.

[Keith Clements]

Well over the last few years the SA Jup has been having problems starting. I had done some rudimentary fault finding, sometimes thinking it was the lack of choke on one carb, duff battery, low voltage across the coil, a problem with earths, or something up with the electronic ignition, perhaps Jack's knees had displaced a wire! The problem was nearly always sorted by putting the booster pack on the igntion coil. Well now we are going on some serious journeys, I thought I had better fix it. I attached a wire to the ignition coil +12v (reversed polarity as alternator fitted) and put it onto the battery terminal (with, and without, ignition switched on). Started first time in both cases. Checked voltage drop on cranking which went down to 9.5v without bypass wire installed, and 10.5 v with it installed. Then moved the end of the wire to the fuse box where there are all the spade connectors that I have added for all the rally bits. Noticed a loose spade connector, so this was tightened up and hey presto the car started. Not too fast now! Next day it would not start again. So I suspected the ignition switch (again) as previously I had had this out and cleaned the very oxidised contacts. Anyway bypassed the switch with a wire but it still would not start. this left the ammeter and the connection on the starter switch. Well, loosening and then tightening the nut on the starter terminal did the job. Or at least I hope so.

[Keith Clements]

It does seem to have fixed it. So much angst for many years fixed in 30 seconds. That connection had not been disturbed since 1989! But obviously was suffering from lack of use. Note, once the alternator had kicked in all the other electrics would work fine as they were not getting their power from the battery. One thing I did note was the charge rate never went above 5 Amps, must check what it does now! It should give about 30A after starting.

[Keith Andrews]

A coomon issue with older cars runnibf orginal looms
Generally caused by oxidisation of the surface of the wire strands between the ign switch and the starter/solenoid.
The surface...the current runs down the surface of a wire not thru it and the oxisisation in effect is the same as an oxidised/ connector creating resistance. This draws greater current, less turning power on the starter and less current to the coil.
Usual fix is simply putting a relay in the circuit so have the ing wire now switch the relay for direct feed to the starter.