Mines making a bit of a squealing noise,its a re-con one Alf H sent me a few years back.I had a listen using the ear jobs and it sounds well rough.
I havn't taken it off yet,will it be a straight forward job to relplace the bearing? A chap down the road from me has an engineering workshop that rebuilds engines so there's no problem getting it pressed in,is it pressed in?
rob.
Water pump bearing size?
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rob needs
- Posts: 134
- Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2006 9:41 pm
- Location: Bristol, Gateway to the west.
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johnairey
- Posts: 43
- Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 7:33 am
- Your interest in the forum: All things Javelin 52 model
- Given Name: John
- Location: North Wilts
Re: Water pump bearing size?
Rob, The bearing is retained by circlips but to replace it you need to part the cover from the body. This can be a pain as corrosion takes place between the sliding parts.
You need to read Part XV- of the Technical Notes - Water Pump Service Notes.
Severnside had a Technical evening on water pumps in November and there is to be a follow up session on parts that have had to be replaced to complete the rebuild. I will let you know when this meeting is to take place.
You need to read Part XV- of the Technical Notes - Water Pump Service Notes.
Severnside had a Technical evening on water pumps in November and there is to be a follow up session on parts that have had to be replaced to complete the rebuild. I will let you know when this meeting is to take place.
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Alf Heseltine
- Posts: 135
- Joined: Mon Nov 30, 2009 11:24 pm
- Your interest in the forum: To discuss Jowett info etc
- Given Name: Alf
- Location: Redcar Cleveland
Re: Water pump bearing size?
Hi Rob, the front bearing for the Water Pump is available from from BSL part no. 6301ZZ (NSK sealed type preferred). You will have to open
the pump to remove the bearing as already mentioned. If the bearing has failed, check its not due to water ingress past the front seal.
The Bearing & Seals may be in stock at JCS,
Regards,
Alf.
the pump to remove the bearing as already mentioned. If the bearing has failed, check its not due to water ingress past the front seal.
The Bearing & Seals may be in stock at JCS,
Regards,
Alf.
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Drummond Black
- Posts: 448
- Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2006 10:38 am
- Your interest in the forum: Jowett Jupiter, Jowett Javelin, Rover 75 (s)
- Given Name: Drummond
- Location: Kirkliston, SCOTLAND
Re: Water pump bearing size?
Must be water pump season as cars in the Scottish Section have recently had a few problems. That,s prompted us to look closer at improving the overall efficiency and realiability of the unit. As mentioned by Alf and John, the pump has to be stripped to replace the front bearing. This gives you the opportunity to check all the components for wear and damage.
The sealed front ball bearing is a good mod as it does away with the grease seals, ( I have one currently fitted on the Jupiter ) however as Alf rightly states, the pump water seals must be effective. Make sure that both drain holes are clear ( one behind each seal ).
The basic Javelin / Jupiter water pump is not a very efficient unit and we are working on various modifications. I list them below :- Increasing the length of the oilite bushes from 1 inch to 1 3/8 ins to increase the bearing area surface.
Replacing the front bearing with a sealed unit ( as above ) + fitting new circlips
Using new castings and extension tube ( Obtaining good serviceable pump body's are becoming rare )
A redesign of the rear support area of the Javelin pump, a design similar to the jupiter would be far superior.
Changing the water pump shaft material to Stainless Steel to combat corrosion.
Machining a slot in the front pulley area of the shaft to accept a length of key steel to replace the current key.
A complete redesign of the "paddle wheel impeller" to increase pump head, hence greater circulation. The
diameter of the impeller can be increased by about 1/4 inch which will assist efficiency. This will require a
modification to the pump body
So basically a completely NEW water pump.
Two Javelin and two Jupiter pumps are currently under "work in progress" with the new impeller design out for machining. If they prove successful then castings will be considered. Lets have some comment regarding the above
Drummond
The sealed front ball bearing is a good mod as it does away with the grease seals, ( I have one currently fitted on the Jupiter ) however as Alf rightly states, the pump water seals must be effective. Make sure that both drain holes are clear ( one behind each seal ).
The basic Javelin / Jupiter water pump is not a very efficient unit and we are working on various modifications. I list them below :- Increasing the length of the oilite bushes from 1 inch to 1 3/8 ins to increase the bearing area surface.
Replacing the front bearing with a sealed unit ( as above ) + fitting new circlips
Using new castings and extension tube ( Obtaining good serviceable pump body's are becoming rare )
A redesign of the rear support area of the Javelin pump, a design similar to the jupiter would be far superior.
Changing the water pump shaft material to Stainless Steel to combat corrosion.
Machining a slot in the front pulley area of the shaft to accept a length of key steel to replace the current key.
A complete redesign of the "paddle wheel impeller" to increase pump head, hence greater circulation. The
diameter of the impeller can be increased by about 1/4 inch which will assist efficiency. This will require a
modification to the pump body
So basically a completely NEW water pump.
Two Javelin and two Jupiter pumps are currently under "work in progress" with the new impeller design out for machining. If they prove successful then castings will be considered. Lets have some comment regarding the above
Drummond
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Leo Bolter
- Posts: 367
- Joined: Sat Feb 10, 2007 10:32 am
- Your interest in the forum: Proud owner of:
1 x 1951 Jowett Jupiter
1 x 1952 LE Velocette
1 x 1952 Jowett Bradford
2 x 1982 Princess 2 litre - Location: R. D. 2, Palmerston North, 4472, New Zealand.
Re: Water pump bearing size?
Hi Drummond and all.
It appears that much thought and research is going on in regard to the water pump modifications and improvements . . . there certainly is room for improvement in several facets of the original pump. The design of the impeller and volute plus close control of its clearances to the body is certainly an area that springs to my mind.
One thing I wonder. If there could be provision made in your redesign to include a rubber “O” ring as an alternative to the gasket to seal the front cover to the main body?
In the interim, here’s what I’ve been doing for many years which makes any future disassembly much easier and to minimise/eliminate the “welding” together, by possible corrosion, of the body/front cover parts.
I have wound a couple of flat layers of plumber’s PTFE thread sealing tape over the surface of the spigot of the front cover where it enters the main body. This effectively isolates the two components and gives a layer that will slide apart (more) easily when the pump is next dismantled. I have also used the PTFE tape by twisting it as it is wound around at the right angle transition of the front cover bolting flange and its spigot. With a careful judgement of the bulk wound on, this will form a soft PTFE “O” ring to seal the joint. I’m sorry . . . this is a bit difficult to explain in words . . . perhaps it needs a video made!
To eliminate the likelihood of the front cover bolt threads corroding and ruining the threads in the body, I have also covered those bolt threads with a couple of layers of PTFE tape. “Coppercoat” anti-seize is good to use here too, but watch out for “hydraulicing in blind holes!
And of course as we know, the use of a suitable Engine Coolant (instead of just water!) goes a long way to preventing corrosion from occurring and improves the cooling ability of the system anyway.
I hope this “semi-bodge” is of use to members until the new design can be completed.
Cheers.
Leo.
It appears that much thought and research is going on in regard to the water pump modifications and improvements . . . there certainly is room for improvement in several facets of the original pump. The design of the impeller and volute plus close control of its clearances to the body is certainly an area that springs to my mind.
One thing I wonder. If there could be provision made in your redesign to include a rubber “O” ring as an alternative to the gasket to seal the front cover to the main body?
In the interim, here’s what I’ve been doing for many years which makes any future disassembly much easier and to minimise/eliminate the “welding” together, by possible corrosion, of the body/front cover parts.
I have wound a couple of flat layers of plumber’s PTFE thread sealing tape over the surface of the spigot of the front cover where it enters the main body. This effectively isolates the two components and gives a layer that will slide apart (more) easily when the pump is next dismantled. I have also used the PTFE tape by twisting it as it is wound around at the right angle transition of the front cover bolting flange and its spigot. With a careful judgement of the bulk wound on, this will form a soft PTFE “O” ring to seal the joint. I’m sorry . . . this is a bit difficult to explain in words . . . perhaps it needs a video made!
To eliminate the likelihood of the front cover bolt threads corroding and ruining the threads in the body, I have also covered those bolt threads with a couple of layers of PTFE tape. “Coppercoat” anti-seize is good to use here too, but watch out for “hydraulicing in blind holes!
And of course as we know, the use of a suitable Engine Coolant (instead of just water!) goes a long way to preventing corrosion from occurring and improves the cooling ability of the system anyway.
I hope this “semi-bodge” is of use to members until the new design can be completed.
Cheers.
Leo.
R. Leo Bolter,
Palmerston North,
New Zealand.
JCC of NZ - Member No 0741.
JOAC - Member No 0161
Car: Jupiter (E1-SA-513-R)
Skype name = jupiter1951
Messenger name = r.l.bolter"at"massey.ac.nz
Palmerston North,
New Zealand.
JCC of NZ - Member No 0741.
JOAC - Member No 0161
Car: Jupiter (E1-SA-513-R)
Skype name = jupiter1951
Messenger name = r.l.bolter"at"massey.ac.nz
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PJGD
- Posts: 380
- Joined: Sun Feb 19, 2006 3:58 am
- Your interest in the forum: A Jowett owner since 1965; Javelins, Bradford, and Jupiter (current). Interested in all things Jowett.
- Given Name: Philip
- Location: Detroit, Michigan, USA
- Contact:
Re: Water pump bearing size?
Since we have somewhat hijacked the original question, I will continue with the new direction. Essentially, I agree to greater or lesser extent with all of the improvements identified by Drummond and Leo above and am able to contribute some additional thoughts. I am absolutely in favour of improving the efficiency of the original water pump and a number of ways in which this can be done are outlined in the article that I posted to my Gallery Page here: https://jowettnet/forum/download/file.p ... &mode=view
Philip Dingle
aka, PJGD
aka, PJGD
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David Kemp
- Posts: 628
- Joined: Sun Mar 09, 2008 1:18 pm
- Location: Brisbane ,Australia
Re: Water pump bearing size?
With the risk of upsetting purists.... I would scrap the Jowett pump & install an electric water pump & thermatic fan. As many hot rodders are doing now, the pumps are I think $170.00AUS new.
I believe this technology change, would make the Javelin more reliable(no matter how good the Jowett pump they are all 60 years young) A benefit is the electric pump can be programmed to run for a few minutes AFTER ignition shut down allowing longer circulation, therefore longer engine life.
I believe this technology change, would make the Javelin more reliable(no matter how good the Jowett pump they are all 60 years young) A benefit is the electric pump can be programmed to run for a few minutes AFTER ignition shut down allowing longer circulation, therefore longer engine life.
Good memories of Bradfords.