Word of warning.... Powertrack do not seem to have an address on their web page. You should checkout their return and insurance policies, especially if buying brake parts.
Also do a search on bulletin boards for feedback.
Javelin brakes
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Forumadmin
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paul wilks
- Posts: 396
- Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 11:13 pm
- Your interest in the forum: 1953 deluxe Javelin (NVM285) owned by father 1959-67
1949 standard Javelin (FBD327) owned in 1980s as daily transport
1952 deluxe Javelin (HJU592) owned since 1967 aka 'Yellow Peril' - Location: Runcorn, Cheshire
Javelin brakes
I assume from this Pat (because I honestly don't know) that silicone reacts poorly with stainless (steel?) Is my assumption correct?
Thanks
Paul
Thanks
Paul
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paul wilks
- Posts: 396
- Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 11:13 pm
- Your interest in the forum: 1953 deluxe Javelin (NVM285) owned by father 1959-67
1949 standard Javelin (FBD327) owned in 1980s as daily transport
1952 deluxe Javelin (HJU592) owned since 1967 aka 'Yellow Peril' - Location: Runcorn, Cheshire
Javelin brakes
Thanks for the advice Pat.
I have now obtained replacement front offside wheel cylinders from a company called Classic Spares. These are re-sleeved with stainless steel so I can't use silicone fluid! I have checked with the boss of Classic Spares and he has advised that as long as I drain the system completely and pump through some DOT3/4 fluid then I will be okay.
I had to remove the front near side cylinders in order to remove the n/s swivel pin anyway and the front o/s are new cylinders. In addition I have removed the bleed nipples from the rear brakes and both the low pressure feed pipe from the reservoir to the master cylinder and the high pressure pipe from the master cylinder to the separate wheel cylinders. I have also pumped the foot pedal in order to force through any remaining silicone fluid. I have been assured that this is all I need to do.
Therefore as soon as I have my reconditioned swivel pin back for refitting I will be reverting to DOT3/4 brake fluid! Just thought you might all like (?) an update.
Thanks everyone
Paul
I have now obtained replacement front offside wheel cylinders from a company called Classic Spares. These are re-sleeved with stainless steel so I can't use silicone fluid! I have checked with the boss of Classic Spares and he has advised that as long as I drain the system completely and pump through some DOT3/4 fluid then I will be okay.
I had to remove the front near side cylinders in order to remove the n/s swivel pin anyway and the front o/s are new cylinders. In addition I have removed the bleed nipples from the rear brakes and both the low pressure feed pipe from the reservoir to the master cylinder and the high pressure pipe from the master cylinder to the separate wheel cylinders. I have also pumped the foot pedal in order to force through any remaining silicone fluid. I have been assured that this is all I need to do.
Therefore as soon as I have my reconditioned swivel pin back for refitting I will be reverting to DOT3/4 brake fluid! Just thought you might all like (?) an update.
Thanks everyone
Paul
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Forumadmin
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From http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/ofbrk.htm
Convert from DOT 3 to DOT 5 in conjunction with a complete brake system rebuild. Start by removing all lines from the calipers or brake cylinders. Rebuilding is a good time to perform the conversion since you can rebuild and clean the calipers and/or cylinders completely, which allows you to remove all DOT 3 fluid. If you are rebuilding, make sure none of your seals are silicone rubber. Most brake components are EPDM, but some can be silicone rubber, and DOT 5 (silicone) will eat silicone seals!
NEVER FLUSH THE SYSTEM BY PUMPING DOT 5 (silicone) OVER DOT 3. Does not work and it's expensive too!!! Silicone brake fluid is expensive. You will uses more than one quart, but less than two quarts of DOT 5. Prices vary, but you will spend $20-$50-70 for fluid alone in a typical change over.
Pump de-natured alcohol into all lines and use compressed air to clean them out. Master cylinder should be removed and cleaned with alcohol using a bench bleed method. With every thing clean and dry, reassemble, fill master cylinder with DOT5, and begin the bleeding process. DO NOT REUSE the DOT5 that is bleeding out. Pour only clean DOT5 into the master cylinder. Cloudy fluid is a sign you missed some DOT3 (this is usually why the brakes are spongey).
A listee reports that 99% of the people that he has converted to DOT 5 (All Corvettes, racing and street applications), do not notice any difference in the "FEEL". Silicone has a high viscosity index and therefore maintains the same viscosity over a broad temperature range. Boiling point is important but not the biggest concern. When temperatures get high, regular brake fluid gets thin and the brakes fade or pressure drops.
Also look at http://www.austin-healey-club.co.uk/Pages/tips.htm
http://www.brakecylinder.com/sleeve2.htm
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/106.cfm
http://www.356registry.org/Tech/brake_fluid.html
ENJOY there is some good stuff therein!
Convert from DOT 3 to DOT 5 in conjunction with a complete brake system rebuild. Start by removing all lines from the calipers or brake cylinders. Rebuilding is a good time to perform the conversion since you can rebuild and clean the calipers and/or cylinders completely, which allows you to remove all DOT 3 fluid. If you are rebuilding, make sure none of your seals are silicone rubber. Most brake components are EPDM, but some can be silicone rubber, and DOT 5 (silicone) will eat silicone seals!
NEVER FLUSH THE SYSTEM BY PUMPING DOT 5 (silicone) OVER DOT 3. Does not work and it's expensive too!!! Silicone brake fluid is expensive. You will uses more than one quart, but less than two quarts of DOT 5. Prices vary, but you will spend $20-$50-70 for fluid alone in a typical change over.
Pump de-natured alcohol into all lines and use compressed air to clean them out. Master cylinder should be removed and cleaned with alcohol using a bench bleed method. With every thing clean and dry, reassemble, fill master cylinder with DOT5, and begin the bleeding process. DO NOT REUSE the DOT5 that is bleeding out. Pour only clean DOT5 into the master cylinder. Cloudy fluid is a sign you missed some DOT3 (this is usually why the brakes are spongey).
A listee reports that 99% of the people that he has converted to DOT 5 (All Corvettes, racing and street applications), do not notice any difference in the "FEEL". Silicone has a high viscosity index and therefore maintains the same viscosity over a broad temperature range. Boiling point is important but not the biggest concern. When temperatures get high, regular brake fluid gets thin and the brakes fade or pressure drops.
Also look at http://www.austin-healey-club.co.uk/Pages/tips.htm
http://www.brakecylinder.com/sleeve2.htm
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/106.cfm
http://www.356registry.org/Tech/brake_fluid.html
ENJOY there is some good stuff therein!
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paul wilks
- Posts: 396
- Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 11:13 pm
- Your interest in the forum: 1953 deluxe Javelin (NVM285) owned by father 1959-67
1949 standard Javelin (FBD327) owned in 1980s as daily transport
1952 deluxe Javelin (HJU592) owned since 1967 aka 'Yellow Peril' - Location: Runcorn, Cheshire
Javelin brakes
Anyone want to buy a Javelin?
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Tony Fearn
- Posts: 1743
- Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2006 5:33 pm
- Your interest in the forum: Early pre-wars. Owner of 1933 'Flying Fox' 'Sarah Jane, and 1934 Short saloon 'Mary Ellen'.
- Given Name: Anthony
- Location: Clayton le Moors, Lancashire, the Premier County in the British Isles!!
If it's your own then no. There was a "pop song" some years ago which had a line in it as far as I remember which said something like:-
"Don't give up because you have a friend", or in our case many, many friends.
So - get in touch with the section secretary. Write to the Jowetteer - only a small percentage of the knowledgeable membership subscribes to this site.
There are many more members with expertise who I expect will be only too glad to help.
Most of us are nearly over the hill and it's great to see relatively younger blokes (how's that for an Australian word) keeping the Marque alive.
Put on a pie and peas supper with perhaps a few beers (if the girls will drive the lads home), and ask the locals for help and I'll bet you'll be inundated with offers.
Most of us have been through this phase of restoration. There comes a point when it seems that you're wasting your time and it isn't worth bothering to get it right. I still haven't finished my 1933 'Flying Fox' which I started when Richard was about 18 months old. Bob Mercer and I had the engine running the first and only (as yet) time in 1991!! Richard will be 25 three days after this Christmas, so what does this tell you.
Take a couple of weeks break and don't think about the car.
"Keep your pecker up"!!
The Fearn family
"Don't give up because you have a friend", or in our case many, many friends.
So - get in touch with the section secretary. Write to the Jowetteer - only a small percentage of the knowledgeable membership subscribes to this site.
There are many more members with expertise who I expect will be only too glad to help.
Most of us are nearly over the hill and it's great to see relatively younger blokes (how's that for an Australian word) keeping the Marque alive.
Put on a pie and peas supper with perhaps a few beers (if the girls will drive the lads home), and ask the locals for help and I'll bet you'll be inundated with offers.
Most of us have been through this phase of restoration. There comes a point when it seems that you're wasting your time and it isn't worth bothering to get it right. I still haven't finished my 1933 'Flying Fox' which I started when Richard was about 18 months old. Bob Mercer and I had the engine running the first and only (as yet) time in 1991!! Richard will be 25 three days after this Christmas, so what does this tell you.
Take a couple of weeks break and don't think about the car.
"Keep your pecker up"!!
The Fearn family
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paul wilks
- Posts: 396
- Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 11:13 pm
- Your interest in the forum: 1953 deluxe Javelin (NVM285) owned by father 1959-67
1949 standard Javelin (FBD327) owned in 1980s as daily transport
1952 deluxe Javelin (HJU592) owned since 1967 aka 'Yellow Peril' - Location: Runcorn, Cheshire
Javelin brakes
Thanks for the support everyone. I have now drained the system and am contemplating what to do next! As some of you know I have owned this **** Javelin since 1967 and after ten years happy motoring I took it off the road to 'do some work' on it. That was 30years ago since which I have raised (with some help from my wife, Kathryn) four children. I guess another few weeks won't do any harm whilst I decide what to do!
As a matter of interest the brake supplier has NOT said silicone will harm the seals etc BUT has said use of silicone will VOID his guarantee. I wonder why? I also wonder if I should write to the Jowetteer to widen the debate.
• In the meantime, with no fluid in the system I assume it is safe to leave the car in this state until I make my decision. Perhaps I should re-connect pipes and replace bleed nipples etc? What do people think?
You're right Tony (and thanks for reminding me!) the Javelin is such a part of my life it would be hard to see life without her (as much as she drives me mad) I think I was at a particularly low point having been told I would have to replace all seals, hoses etc in order to revert to DOT3/4.
Anyway, thanks everyone for your ongoing support and please don’t forget to give me advice on what to do now the braking system is drained.
Paul
As a matter of interest the brake supplier has NOT said silicone will harm the seals etc BUT has said use of silicone will VOID his guarantee. I wonder why? I also wonder if I should write to the Jowetteer to widen the debate.
• In the meantime, with no fluid in the system I assume it is safe to leave the car in this state until I make my decision. Perhaps I should re-connect pipes and replace bleed nipples etc? What do people think?
You're right Tony (and thanks for reminding me!) the Javelin is such a part of my life it would be hard to see life without her (as much as she drives me mad) I think I was at a particularly low point having been told I would have to replace all seals, hoses etc in order to revert to DOT3/4.
Anyway, thanks everyone for your ongoing support and please don’t forget to give me advice on what to do now the braking system is drained.
Paul
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dougie
- Posts: 113
- Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2006 10:32 pm
- Your interest in the forum: Long time Jowett owner with a Javelin, Jupiter and Bradford.
- Given Name: Doug
- Location: Brisbane Australia
Paul,-
paul wilks
- Posts: 396
- Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 11:13 pm
- Your interest in the forum: 1953 deluxe Javelin (NVM285) owned by father 1959-67
1949 standard Javelin (FBD327) owned in 1980s as daily transport
1952 deluxe Javelin (HJU592) owned since 1967 aka 'Yellow Peril' - Location: Runcorn, Cheshire
Javelin brakes
I'll pack my case.
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Keith Andrews
- Posts: 941
- Joined: Wed Jul 26, 2006 8:11 am
- Location: New Zealand
- Contact:
Stick with the tried and true...dont mess with the new tech nology fluilds
Example:1/ Rollwe rockers came out yrs ago, and heap of guys put them on their street cars...bragging rights etc...then they started to Fail...
Rollers in those days where for pure racing, last a season or two...
And when dynoed, there was no advantage over tappets
2/Silcones and other types where devaloped for high temp race, towing, ABS etc...And expensive, do u realy need it? I use and continue to use std fluids in the Camaro, and that will tow the Bradford every so often.
There is a sensable conversion here
http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns/ ... er/10.html
Get your system to gether, do it by the book.
IE As everything is old, dont just replace the faulty cylinder, repace them All..including the master. With 1 unit now holding more pressure, u will find other areas will fail/leak over the next yr or so. Be lazy..do once do right.
No leaks, and system like new, u will have no worries about moisture again for the next 20 to 30 yrs...as was the case for the 1st 40 odd yrs.
Brakes are simple...if u play to simple rules.
From orginal hardware...
Get a leak and the system has not had a rebuild for 20 or 30 yrs.
1/Bleed and flush the system.
2/Remove master and all slaves and send off to be reselved..stainless whatever...not just hone.
3/New seals etc with a little brake fluid smeared inside.
4/Check hoses tubing etc...replace these if anything looks deterioated.
5/Assemble system
6/Crack outlets on the master cylinder, and get the fluid flowing. reconnect.
6/Start at the slave fartherest from the master and bleed that with the. pedal Down, bleed open, close bleed, pedal up method...then move to the next closest to the master.
7/Go around once more, just to make sure.
8/Flush every 2 to 3 yrs...takes about 20 to 30 mins.
Cost...sure at the time getting everything rebuilt it it seems a lot..but u relate that back to per yr to the gae of the car...the cost of batteries or tyres over that time is more expensive...for that matter brakes are one of the cheapest of all the systems in the car....
Here are some figures to think about
I have had the Camaro for 26 yrs...it got a full ground up rebuild in 86, every 7 to 8 yrs body strip, panel paint and anything that needs replace gets replaced then (carpets, door handle etc)
Including intial cost $NZ12.000, batteries , tyres, gas ,oil etc I have spent $97,000 on the car..(it is worth $65,000)
Thats about $3700/yr it is used almost daily
If we relate that to every so often buying a reasonable 'jappa' or modern car, and replacing every 4 to 8 yrs, running/replacement, insurance costs etc etc...The Camaro is cheaper.
Hope that puts a perpective on it...
Oh another thing when getting into projects...At the start everything seems to go well, and one sees rewards for effort, even if it is parts dismantled.
Then there is the middle bit where there is a lot of work, little tosee for it, and the odd hassle to deal with...this part can get drawn out and boring...the more u procrastinate during this time the worse it gets...
Then towards then end, one sees rewards, and when finished a great satisfaction and well being...
The middle can be described as...no pain no gain.
And unless u have advanced experiance in stuff, Stick with the tried and true....KISS...Keep It Simple Stupid.
Example:1/ Rollwe rockers came out yrs ago, and heap of guys put them on their street cars...bragging rights etc...then they started to Fail...
Rollers in those days where for pure racing, last a season or two...
And when dynoed, there was no advantage over tappets
2/Silcones and other types where devaloped for high temp race, towing, ABS etc...And expensive, do u realy need it? I use and continue to use std fluids in the Camaro, and that will tow the Bradford every so often.
There is a sensable conversion here
http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns/ ... er/10.html
Get your system to gether, do it by the book.
IE As everything is old, dont just replace the faulty cylinder, repace them All..including the master. With 1 unit now holding more pressure, u will find other areas will fail/leak over the next yr or so. Be lazy..do once do right.
No leaks, and system like new, u will have no worries about moisture again for the next 20 to 30 yrs...as was the case for the 1st 40 odd yrs.
Brakes are simple...if u play to simple rules.
From orginal hardware...
Get a leak and the system has not had a rebuild for 20 or 30 yrs.
1/Bleed and flush the system.
2/Remove master and all slaves and send off to be reselved..stainless whatever...not just hone.
3/New seals etc with a little brake fluid smeared inside.
4/Check hoses tubing etc...replace these if anything looks deterioated.
5/Assemble system
6/Crack outlets on the master cylinder, and get the fluid flowing. reconnect.
6/Start at the slave fartherest from the master and bleed that with the. pedal Down, bleed open, close bleed, pedal up method...then move to the next closest to the master.
7/Go around once more, just to make sure.
8/Flush every 2 to 3 yrs...takes about 20 to 30 mins.
Cost...sure at the time getting everything rebuilt it it seems a lot..but u relate that back to per yr to the gae of the car...the cost of batteries or tyres over that time is more expensive...for that matter brakes are one of the cheapest of all the systems in the car....
Here are some figures to think about
I have had the Camaro for 26 yrs...it got a full ground up rebuild in 86, every 7 to 8 yrs body strip, panel paint and anything that needs replace gets replaced then (carpets, door handle etc)
Including intial cost $NZ12.000, batteries , tyres, gas ,oil etc I have spent $97,000 on the car..(it is worth $65,000)
Thats about $3700/yr it is used almost daily
If we relate that to every so often buying a reasonable 'jappa' or modern car, and replacing every 4 to 8 yrs, running/replacement, insurance costs etc etc...The Camaro is cheaper.
Hope that puts a perpective on it...
Oh another thing when getting into projects...At the start everything seems to go well, and one sees rewards for effort, even if it is parts dismantled.
Then there is the middle bit where there is a lot of work, little tosee for it, and the odd hassle to deal with...this part can get drawn out and boring...the more u procrastinate during this time the worse it gets...
Then towards then end, one sees rewards, and when finished a great satisfaction and well being...
The middle can be described as...no pain no gain.
And unless u have advanced experiance in stuff, Stick with the tried and true....KISS...Keep It Simple Stupid.
My Spelling is Not Incorrect...It's 'Creative'
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paul wilks
- Posts: 396
- Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 11:13 pm
- Your interest in the forum: 1953 deluxe Javelin (NVM285) owned by father 1959-67
1949 standard Javelin (FBD327) owned in 1980s as daily transport
1952 deluxe Javelin (HJU592) owned since 1967 aka 'Yellow Peril' - Location: Runcorn, Cheshire
Javelin brakes
"Get your system together, do it by the book.
IE as everything is old, don’t just replace the faulty cylinder, replace them All. including the master. With 1 unit now holding more pressure, u will find other areas will fail/leak over the next yr or so. Be lazy..do once do right. "
I think I need to re-clarify my position. It’s not that I am trying to cut corners by neglecting to replace old and worn out cylinders, hoses etc. I reconditioned the whole system only about two-three years ago- new cylinders front and rear, new master cylinder, new hoses and new pipes all round. The fact that one of these cylinders let me down, as I said before, was a blessing in disguise since I discovered that I had been supplied with incorrect size offside cylinders i.e. 1â€
IE as everything is old, don’t just replace the faulty cylinder, replace them All. including the master. With 1 unit now holding more pressure, u will find other areas will fail/leak over the next yr or so. Be lazy..do once do right. "
I think I need to re-clarify my position. It’s not that I am trying to cut corners by neglecting to replace old and worn out cylinders, hoses etc. I reconditioned the whole system only about two-three years ago- new cylinders front and rear, new master cylinder, new hoses and new pipes all round. The fact that one of these cylinders let me down, as I said before, was a blessing in disguise since I discovered that I had been supplied with incorrect size offside cylinders i.e. 1â€
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Keith Andrews
- Posts: 941
- Joined: Wed Jul 26, 2006 8:11 am
- Location: New Zealand
- Contact:
Some times things go a little wrong..
I feel your frustration...right now we a have spent over $5000 in the last few months on a rebuild redesign of the camaro engine...and have 2 faint taps ....replaced the valve train push rods up..got rid of one, the other we believe to be a faulty lifter (new) or the lifter hasnted bedded on the cam lob...on the other hand the the engine is meeting all expectations of bottom end grunt and econonmy....
So we are now looking at pulling vallley cover, cam etc...Bloody frustrating and expensive...and just dont have the time cause are in the middle of the Bradford engine rebuild that has to be finished for a run on the 28th Nov...
Add to that the King and Crimson parrots are laying but will not sit on the eggs...These are worth about $700 a chick, and dont have the time to incubate and hand raise...
With all this going on Im 1/2 way thru a 2nd Bradford Van ground up resto, and that should have been finished by now, with the Rodded version of a Bradford truck well under way..and not started.
Belwive me.. I know your frustration as u mentioned above and condisered in passing to give up.....Dont let a bit of metal beat u m8.
"No pain no gain"
It was not finished..u are still at the middle part, the frustrating part..and often disheartening..whats making it even more frustrating is u thought it was finished...Oh another thing when getting into projects...At the start everything seems to go well, and one sees rewards for effort, even if it is parts dismantled.
Then there is the middle bit where there is a lot of work, little tosee for it, and the odd hassle to deal with...this part can get drawn out and boring...the more u procrastinate during this time the worse it gets...
Then towards then end, one sees rewards, and when finished a great satisfaction and well being...
I feel your frustration...right now we a have spent over $5000 in the last few months on a rebuild redesign of the camaro engine...and have 2 faint taps ....replaced the valve train push rods up..got rid of one, the other we believe to be a faulty lifter (new) or the lifter hasnted bedded on the cam lob...on the other hand the the engine is meeting all expectations of bottom end grunt and econonmy....
So we are now looking at pulling vallley cover, cam etc...Bloody frustrating and expensive...and just dont have the time cause are in the middle of the Bradford engine rebuild that has to be finished for a run on the 28th Nov...
Add to that the King and Crimson parrots are laying but will not sit on the eggs...These are worth about $700 a chick, and dont have the time to incubate and hand raise...
With all this going on Im 1/2 way thru a 2nd Bradford Van ground up resto, and that should have been finished by now, with the Rodded version of a Bradford truck well under way..and not started.
Belwive me.. I know your frustration as u mentioned above and condisered in passing to give up.....Dont let a bit of metal beat u m8.
"No pain no gain"
My Spelling is Not Incorrect...It's 'Creative'
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paul wilks
- Posts: 396
- Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 11:13 pm
- Your interest in the forum: 1953 deluxe Javelin (NVM285) owned by father 1959-67
1949 standard Javelin (FBD327) owned in 1980s as daily transport
1952 deluxe Javelin (HJU592) owned since 1967 aka 'Yellow Peril' - Location: Runcorn, Cheshire
Javelin suspension parts
Thanks for the encouragement, Keith. Can I give up after owning the Javelin since 1967, even though she has been off the road for the past thirty years? I ask you!
All the best
Paul
All the best
Paul
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Keith Andrews
- Posts: 941
- Joined: Wed Jul 26, 2006 8:11 am
- Location: New Zealand
- Contact:
NO!!!Can I give up after owning the Javelin since 1967, even though she has been off the road for the past thirty years? I ask you!
I mentioned in passing one day yrs ago to my wife, sell the Camaro...result...Im now to damn terriffied to EVER MENTION IT AGAIN...I would have been better off suggesting we sell the children!!!
And a big growl "off the road for the past thirty years?" thats a lot of procrasination m8 lol...
Just put your head down, put the blinkers on...tell the wife what u NEED to do and what it wiil take...
Another story Sry..
I brought the bradford about 6months ago "restored " from the other end of the country...And A passed WoF (MOT) when got here...
Every bolt including those wire in thre back of the dash loose and dangerous
Front kingpins worn, steering box, steering linkages, dangerouly worn engine with 45/1000 slap, clutch brake cleavus joints all slapped out, diff wines bad, buckled wheels, tyres all flat spoted, gearbox thrust bearing shaft and bushes slapped out...oh the list just goes on and on....
Now, As mentioned before it will pass a 'by the book' WoF. Have a new diff head, reconed gearbox, and engine in the middle of a recon already to go in...mechanically the drive train wiring etc etc etc etc is near all back to "as new"
Body is solid now, and from 50ft away looks good....
It can stay that way till I have the rest of the projects mentioned out of the way, then I will look at paint, dents...
In the mean time I have a Braddy I can walk out to fire up and know I can go anywhere in the country without a break down....
And Serval extra 1000 dollars (we cant afford)!!!
Even just to head down to the supermaket to do the weekly shopping...
Now that is VERY satisfing....
My Spelling is Not Incorrect...It's 'Creative'
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paul wilks
- Posts: 396
- Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2006 11:13 pm
- Your interest in the forum: 1953 deluxe Javelin (NVM285) owned by father 1959-67
1949 standard Javelin (FBD327) owned in 1980s as daily transport
1952 deluxe Javelin (HJU592) owned since 1967 aka 'Yellow Peril' - Location: Runcorn, Cheshire
Javelin suspension parts
Yes and its four children eldest 30 youngest 19 and three through university.And a big growl "off the road for the past thirty years?" thats a lot of procrasination m8 lol...
Sorry to ask this Keith and please forgive my ignorance but what's a Camaro?sell the Camaro
Paul