Buckled rims? Sorted

Keith Andrews · Post by **Keith Andrews** » Sat Oct 21, 2006 2:32 am

Has anyone successfully staightened Bradford wheel rims themselves, and how did u do it?

I dont mean rims way out (accident), just a bit out of plumb thru age and wear and tear.

Post by **Forumadmin** » Sat Oct 21, 2006 10:32 pm

I have just had one of my alloys on the Subaru bent back into shape professionally. I think they put it on a special tool press that realigns it vertically, but they find it difficult to restore any axial deviation. Steel wheels must be easier and more resilient. If you have got the time, make a former from a good wheel covered in a plastic bag and then fill with reinforced concrete. If you do both sides then the two halves can be used to get rid of any high spots in the bad wheel.

Keith Andrews · Post by **Keith Andrews** » Sat Oct 21, 2006 11:09 pm

A note on alloy wheels...
Last yr, a guy pulled out on me towing trailer in the Camaro...I swerved clipped the island in the center of the raod at about 20mph blowing both right tyres and buckled the front right....
Insurance job NPs....
As the mags where not replable...and at about $120 each the insurance company would get thenm crack tested and striaghtened.
I had a bad feeling...So I made a few enquires how they crk test...
The repare company had costed x ray equipment but it did not warrent the cost over fixing /replacing..
They stress the outside of the mag and visivly check for crks, this dosent show any crks that maybe around the center hub, nor any stress flaws or microscopic crks....
I then approached the insurance company with this data...and the issue of the weight of the car 3600ib, power 400hp, and value $65,000, and I owned the car for 26 yrs and would be for another 30 odd yrs..

They would not then agree to replacing with a full set...

I they explained that under NZ law, since this issue has been pionted out to them, they company and the person who has made the call, it anything should go wrong on the road or track, someone dies, they are up for near maniditor man slaughter charges...Even thu the test and approval method is Government approved....
Within a couple hrs the assor amd my self where looking thru catologes in the mag wheel dealership for replacement mags...SS Cragers, full set, Nearly $1500..not a problem....

Steel wheels are a very different kettle of fish to Alloy...

Have found a local engineering company that fixes steel wheels...may just be worth the cost of getting staightened rather than messing around with concret formers....they would be good for taking out bent rim edges, but holding down and getting the outside edges exactly parrell with the center hub looks as it could be a mission....the wheels are not like new modern steel wheels, they are made of a real heavy gauge..And beating to straighten is going to be with a damn big slegde hammer. lol

Keith Clements · Post by **Keith Clements** » Mon Oct 23, 2006 2:52 pm

By same argument did you have the track rods, wheel bearings, front suspension and steering box replaced?

Keith Andrews · Post by **Keith Andrews** » Mon Oct 23, 2006 7:50 pm

Steering box was rebuilt a couple months later thu not because of this
There was no damage to front suspension, and wheelalignment didnt need adjusting. bearing all ok, a bent ot damaged spindle shows up in alighnment with the calipers...1st gen Camaros are very sensive to this aligment.
We where at low speed, and a Camaro is not built like a jowett or a modern car. If it was I doubt if the front rim would have neen damaged as it was... the size of the tyres (235x60x14) absorbed much of the impact.
The crk testing carried out (the accessor did the excersice) was -ve thu conceeded the method was not appropiate for the application.

Keith Andrews · Post by **Keith Andrews** » Fri Oct 27, 2006 7:49 am

Back to subject...Oh yeah buckled steel wheels..

Been talking to a lot of ppl...ppl in the industry and service the industry.
NEVER....NEVER heat and straighten!!!!!...like, and even mores so, suspension, steering components it will seriously weaken them.

How much is too much, out of wack?
From a person in the know..
" an new car or near new....nil
An older daily driver, 1 to 1.5mm.
A old car like your Bradford...well 3 or 4mm would be expected and acceptable for its age power and speed"

I have got 2 wheels straighened (2 and 5mm out), pick up after the weekend $100 folding.
So will see how they turned out..

And Also located, thanks to local club members another 2 that have 1 and 1.2mm ...these are being (along with 2 others = 4) sand blasted and undercoated and pick up next week $100 for all 4.

I check throw out of the rims on a wheel balancing machine that has electonic measuring.

Steps

Keith Andrews · Post by **Keith Andrews** » Wed Nov 01, 2006 8:21 am

Update..
Well I sent the rims in...they straighened the out rim, but the part where the tyre beed sits they cant do it...?????? ......
So using a hydrolic press in a few right places, I have a set of wheels max 55/1000 (1.4mm) off perfect....
During this I noticed that the connact between the rim and drum is between the stud holes.
This means that there could be flex if the rim is torqued on uneven and each tightened in many stages.
Doing this, I could get a mm movement on the tyre tread where it contacts the road with about 1/2 to 1 turn on a couple of studs. I was able to reduce the 1.4mm to a little under 0.4mm.
Use a torque wrench to tighten your studs, you will be suprised how far off u are....

50 to 60lbs is the range for a Bradford type vechle...Im sure I have read somewhere Bradford spec is 45lb, but cant find it again..a manual here.
Large more powerful cars get up to to 85 to 95lb range

Post by **Forumadmin** » Wed Nov 01, 2006 9:11 pm

There are many cases of Jowett wheel studs stretching. This is probably caused by modern fitters with impact wrenches (spanners).
It is agood idea to check every stud for stretch, either uneven thread pitch or waisting of the bolt.