We had Peter's Jav lights re-chromed but the unpicked rim was so hard that it would not bend back and the glass cracked when try to refit to holder. Mortified that these rare early lights were irreplaceable I found some available from China but also some from a BSA supplier 8 miles away.
http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffylighting.htm
I purchased the H4 LHD units with LED bulbs £105.
These bulbs give much better focussed light than originals and 4000 lumens, about a 70w filament equivalent.
Wire them as a normal bulb, they will work on pos or neg earth supplies. Blue is earth, white dip & black main.
They are fine with a dynamo or an alternator DC system
PG also has the adaptor socket that allows you to wire them in.
He also has the original Lucas units if you want them.
5 3/4" glass/reflector.
C/W pilot bulb holder. Pt.no. HL10160 £19.95
Special offer. With Quartz Halogen bulbs + all holders £35.00 (normally £40.85)
See this thread for a resilvering service.
Early Javelin Restoration
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They are here
Just about to pick up Peter and Hans from Heathrow.
On Thursday, Bill Lock and Robert Dudley are coming over to help with Robert staying the night.
Plans for tomorrow are to fit the exhaust pipe, make up the brake pipes and get the brakes working.
Then we will move onto the suspension doing the tracking and ball height adjustments. Putting the covers and locks on the torsion bars and then doing a spanner check on everything.
Then we move onto the gearbox and engine completion.
Petrol system completion and check with compressed air and bubble fluid.
Water hoses and system check.
We can then let the Jav down on the lift and finish off the engine compartment.
The dashboard and all electrical connections for ignition are next.
I want to fire it up and check the prop shaft and wheel balance before taking off the lift.
Then we have the floor to template and cut out.
The start putting on the trim.....and finish off the electrics.
On Thursday, Bill Lock and Robert Dudley are coming over to help with Robert staying the night.
Plans for tomorrow are to fit the exhaust pipe, make up the brake pipes and get the brakes working.
Then we will move onto the suspension doing the tracking and ball height adjustments. Putting the covers and locks on the torsion bars and then doing a spanner check on everything.
Then we move onto the gearbox and engine completion.
Petrol system completion and check with compressed air and bubble fluid.
Water hoses and system check.
We can then let the Jav down on the lift and finish off the engine compartment.
The dashboard and all electrical connections for ignition are next.
I want to fire it up and check the prop shaft and wheel balance before taking off the lift.
Then we have the floor to template and cut out.
The start putting on the trim.....and finish off the electrics.
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The rebuild week
We started with a list of things to do. The green 'y' denotes we completed the task in the week. The red tasks are those that need completing.
Peter, Hans, Keith, Robert, Bill and Chris assisted.
Fit Exhaust
y make mid support bracket
y find silencer, rear pipe, mounts
y exhaust putty, fit.
Much trial fitting, cutting and bending of the pipes was needed to obtain a fit and hopefully no rattles.
Brake system
y find new t piece and fittings, reservoir and feed pipe
y put new fittings on front pipes
y fit, silicone fill and test
There was some rivalry between the Swiss team of Peter and Hans who made the offside pipe and Robert and Bill who made the nearside one. Which one leaked?
y adjust all wheels
brake test This will be done down the lane!
Suspension
y Fit King pin shim to correct clearance
y Check steering max movement and clearances
y Adjust track, ball height,
y Fit shock absorber support
y Fit r torsion bar covers, f tb lock tabs
y Check Panhard, all suspension bolts when loaded
y Spanner check
y bump stops
ride height This will be done when we have some weight in the car.
Engine
y Rear mount bolt, engine mounts
y Gear linkage fit and adjust
y Petrol pipe reroute, filter , air pressure check, fill petrol.
y offside water inlet change
The new one from Bill needed the surface flattening as it leaked after installation.
y radiator , heater and hoses
The heater hose was fitted too short as it did not go over the radiator baffles, so needed extension.
We had a challenge converting a male to male 3/8inch BSP fitting to a tapered thread suitable to fit female temperature sender into female radiator. 19TPI 
y check water leaks
y fluids in engine, gearbox, diff,
y oil pressure gauge and pipe
y throttle, choke
adjust clutch Need to get the engine running and check gearbox and prop shaft balance at same time
y Timing, elec test, comprssion test, petrol test
We found a pin hole in the petrol pipe where it passed the battery box and replaced with some petrol hose. The battery had eaten through the battery compartment and had been replaced by Chris during chassis welding.
y ignition coil change
y Complete elec system enough to start engine (see below upto install dashboard)
y start, check gauges, leaks,
wheel and prop balance
clean out spark plug cavities for dropped screws
adjust throttle and choke
Spanner check
Elec system
y After fitting battery support and battery fit rear seat floor
y battery and earth cable, isolator, starter switch, starter, dynamo, control box
The loom supplied by JCS had the starter relay connections ending before the chassis cross member so they were extended. Heat shrink covering was used for insulation and protection. The earth to the starter relay was forgotten and the error was found during circuit checks.
y Ignition, horns, (relay not fitted as not on circuit diagram or in loom, but may fit later)
Dashboard Wired up and used hanging out
y Circuit tests Earth resistance and starter resistance check and ignition resistance check
Front lights Fitted but light circuits not checked as LEDs in use, will do later
The new LED headlights need the tabs grinding off to fit the holder.
Trafficators/indicators (Fitted but requires some thought as LEDs and bulbs in use so need special timer relays)
Interior light
Wipers
Trim
y Template floor, cut new floor
y cut rear floor panels
y Fit floor
y make holding tabs to under seat floor panels
y After checking petrol gauge fit rear floor
y Fit spare wheel carrier But need to fit sprung holder
y Fit front bumper, front valence, grill
Paint touch up on boot, front wheel arch and small adjustment on bonnet alignment
Fit rear bumper, number plate holders
y Door scraper strip
y Fit door handles
y Fit chrome strip Waiting for more fixings BSF293P T bolts from Bresco for last strip on bonnet plus a couple of nuts on front passenger door
The T bolts were held in position with a sliver of rubber sheet under them. An O ring was fitted under each nut.
The extended 7mm spanner to fit the T bolt in the front door.
y fit air box
Rear glass and side windows
Door assembly
Peter speeded up as the week progressed...
Escape
And there were some escapes from the Gulag when Keith cooked dinner...most ingredients sourced from his garden.
and down the Saracens Head for steak night.
Plus evening visits to a selection of the great restaurants in Kings Langley.
We achieved most of what we desired and started the engine on Sunday evening. The electrical system is not charging so will either fix it using this Lucas guide or will convert to negative earth and fit the Dynamator which is the final intention so that the LED rear and indicator lights can be used.
Peter, Hans, Keith, Robert, Bill and Chris assisted.
Fit Exhaust
y make mid support bracket
y find silencer, rear pipe, mounts
y exhaust putty, fit.
Much trial fitting, cutting and bending of the pipes was needed to obtain a fit and hopefully no rattles.
Brake system
y find new t piece and fittings, reservoir and feed pipe
y put new fittings on front pipes
y fit, silicone fill and test
There was some rivalry between the Swiss team of Peter and Hans who made the offside pipe and Robert and Bill who made the nearside one. Which one leaked?
y adjust all wheels
brake test This will be done down the lane!
Suspension
y Fit King pin shim to correct clearance
y Check steering max movement and clearances
y Adjust track, ball height,
y Fit shock absorber support
y Fit r torsion bar covers, f tb lock tabs
y Check Panhard, all suspension bolts when loaded
y Spanner check
y bump stops
ride height This will be done when we have some weight in the car.
Engine
y Rear mount bolt, engine mounts
y Gear linkage fit and adjust
y Petrol pipe reroute, filter , air pressure check, fill petrol.
y offside water inlet change
y radiator , heater and hoses
The heater hose was fitted too short as it did not go over the radiator baffles, so needed extension.
y check water leaks
y fluids in engine, gearbox, diff,
y oil pressure gauge and pipe
y throttle, choke
adjust clutch Need to get the engine running and check gearbox and prop shaft balance at same time
y Timing, elec test, comprssion test, petrol test
We found a pin hole in the petrol pipe where it passed the battery box and replaced with some petrol hose. The battery had eaten through the battery compartment and had been replaced by Chris during chassis welding.
y ignition coil change
y Complete elec system enough to start engine (see below upto install dashboard)
y start, check gauges, leaks,
wheel and prop balance
clean out spark plug cavities for dropped screws
adjust throttle and choke
Spanner check
Elec system
y After fitting battery support and battery fit rear seat floor
y battery and earth cable, isolator, starter switch, starter, dynamo, control box
y Ignition, horns, (relay not fitted as not on circuit diagram or in loom, but may fit later)
Dashboard Wired up and used hanging out
y Circuit tests Earth resistance and starter resistance check and ignition resistance check
Front lights Fitted but light circuits not checked as LEDs in use, will do later
Trafficators/indicators (Fitted but requires some thought as LEDs and bulbs in use so need special timer relays)
Interior light
Wipers
Trim
y Template floor, cut new floor
y cut rear floor panels
y Fit floor
y make holding tabs to under seat floor panels
y After checking petrol gauge fit rear floor
y Fit spare wheel carrier But need to fit sprung holder
y Fit front bumper, front valence, grill
Paint touch up on boot, front wheel arch and small adjustment on bonnet alignment
Fit rear bumper, number plate holders
y Door scraper strip
y Fit door handles
y Fit chrome strip Waiting for more fixings BSF293P T bolts from Bresco for last strip on bonnet plus a couple of nuts on front passenger door
The T bolts were held in position with a sliver of rubber sheet under them. An O ring was fitted under each nut.
y fit air box
Rear glass and side windows
Door assembly
Peter speeded up as the week progressed...
Escape
And there were some escapes from the Gulag when Keith cooked dinner...most ingredients sourced from his garden.
and down the Saracens Head for steak night.
Plus evening visits to a selection of the great restaurants in Kings Langley.
We achieved most of what we desired and started the engine on Sunday evening. The electrical system is not charging so will either fix it using this Lucas guide or will convert to negative earth and fit the Dynamator which is the final intention so that the LED rear and indicator lights can be used.
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More things to do.
Did you see the problem in the seventh picture in the previous posting? Caused much hilarity.
Forgot to report that Chris also fitted the rectangular rope 11mm x 15mm for the trim around the doors. (the picture I took was out of focus!) We have found a source for this in the USA . but I have enquired with manufacturer. http://www.twistedpaperrope.com/twisted-paper-rope.html
From http://www.mg-cars.org.uk/imgytr/hints&tips.shtml
Order various fittings to replenish stock.
Shorten heater hose as it fouls rad.
Antifreeze.
brake test
ride height
adjust clutch
wheel and prop balance
y clean out spark plug cavities for dropped screws
adjust throttle and choke
Spanner check
dashboard wiring and fit, find clock and lamp bezel
light circuit check
adjust headlights
Interior light
Wipers
horn relay,
indicators and trafficators
source reversing switch, fit on bracket and gearbox, test
Dynamator, fuse holder and polarity change, clock polarity change
Fit floor metal work for seats and covers.
Ventilator louvres
Paint touch up on boot, front wheel arch and small adjustment on bonnet alignment
Paint touch up under JAVELIN badge as holes needed some fettling for new badge. Fit badge.
Fit spare wheel compressor.
Fit rear bumper, number plate holders, CH sign
y 3 Chrome strips on bonnet plus two nuts on front passenger door trim
Rear glass and side windows
Window trims
Door assembly, door catches
Dinitrol
Door cards, millboard in boot lid from pattern
All wooden bits,
Head lining, piping and other trim
Seats and carpet
Have a look at what is left over and figure out where it goes and if it is needed.
Forgot to report that Chris also fitted the rectangular rope 11mm x 15mm for the trim around the doors. (the picture I took was out of focus!) We have found a source for this in the USA . but I have enquired with manufacturer. http://www.twistedpaperrope.com/twisted-paper-rope.html
From http://www.mg-cars.org.uk/imgytr/hints&tips.shtml
THE NEVER ENDING LIST...Fixing the nailed in trim
Some of the trim in the MG Y Type was originally fixed into place by twist nails with the trim being nailed in to rolls of very well twisted paper that formed a flexible rope. This was then able to be pushed into the curved channels in various places around the body tub. I have used twisted paper ribbon (available on line in many craft stores for example here). Some of the trim in the MG Y Type was originally fixed into place by twist nails with the trim being nailed in to rolls of very well twisted paper that formed a flexible rope. This was then able to be pushed into the curved channels in various places around the body tub. I have used twisted paper ribbon (available on line in many craft stores for example here). Modern suppliers only seem to sell this in narrow widths but you can cut several lengths from a roll such as this one then clamp one end in a bench vice and wind up the pieces to twist a new rope. Before you let go, have a friend tape up both ends with tape! Twist nails are readily available from your hardware store too, but be careful about the length that you buy - I found the originals were in different lengths, most were 7/8" - too short and you may not get a good grip through the paper, too long and you may come through the outer skin of the body shell ... so check your depth!
Rock Von Dullen, USA
Order various fittings to replenish stock.
Shorten heater hose as it fouls rad.
Antifreeze.
brake test
ride height
adjust clutch
wheel and prop balance
y clean out spark plug cavities for dropped screws
adjust throttle and choke
Spanner check
dashboard wiring and fit, find clock and lamp bezel
light circuit check
adjust headlights
Interior light
Wipers
horn relay,
indicators and trafficators
source reversing switch, fit on bracket and gearbox, test
Dynamator, fuse holder and polarity change, clock polarity change
Fit floor metal work for seats and covers.
Ventilator louvres
Paint touch up on boot, front wheel arch and small adjustment on bonnet alignment
Paint touch up under JAVELIN badge as holes needed some fettling for new badge. Fit badge.
Fit spare wheel compressor.
Fit rear bumper, number plate holders, CH sign
y 3 Chrome strips on bonnet plus two nuts on front passenger door trim
Rear glass and side windows
Window trims
Door assembly, door catches
Dinitrol
Door cards, millboard in boot lid from pattern
All wooden bits,
Head lining, piping and other trim
Seats and carpet
Have a look at what is left over and figure out where it goes and if it is needed.
Last edited by Keith Clements on Mon Jul 31, 2017 7:31 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Early Javelin Restoration
Completed the grill assembly and then tackled the non-charging issue. After a checkout performing tests 1-9 using the Lucas Guide I removed the control box to disassemble the points to clean both sets. Then set up mechanically using the Maintenance manual and had to put an extra shim in the voltage regulator points. Then reinstalled and did checks 5 to 9 setting up the voltage regulator with the card between the cutout points to get the correct charging voltage. Then set up the cut out points to get the correct cut in voltage.
The dynamo was driven with a drill
The card placed in the cutout of a spare.
The volts adjuster on the left and the cutout on the right.
I had spent the morning sourcing various parts with the intention of replacing the dynamo and control box with the dynamotor. But I really want to get the car working as standard before the complex task of installing LEDs and switching polarity.
I had spent the morning sourcing various parts with the intention of replacing the dynamo and control box with the dynamotor. But I really want to get the car working as standard before the complex task of installing LEDs and switching polarity.
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Re: Early Javelin Restoration
Today started with more sourcing of parts and I then went to the garage to put all my tools and parts back where they should be after a week of frenzied activity.
Then decided to complete the chrome strip fitting by devising an extended spanner, but I used a length of hose pipe which meant I could get a good third of a turn by bending the tube. Some swearing, but got it done. Then I tackled the strip on the bonnet that was equally problematical as I needed smaller nuts for the front two t bolts and also I had to take the air box out. Before I put the dashboard in I thought I would look at the clock to see how to change its polarity. This article might help....
also helps
But I am amazed at the crap advice given on some forums. Like 'just connect it to the battery and see what happens' or 'fit a polarity converter from Maplins'. The main issue is that the case itself is grounded as only one wire enters the unit. Isolating it is not easy and may be impossible.
That is a problem for later and all things electronic will be left until after the car is roadworthy, but I thought I would look at it before fitting the dashboard. I will just leave the clock disconnected.
Then decided to complete the chrome strip fitting by devising an extended spanner, but I used a length of hose pipe which meant I could get a good third of a turn by bending the tube. Some swearing, but got it done. Then I tackled the strip on the bonnet that was equally problematical as I needed smaller nuts for the front two t bolts and also I had to take the air box out. Before I put the dashboard in I thought I would look at the clock to see how to change its polarity. This article might help....
also helps
But I am amazed at the crap advice given on some forums. Like 'just connect it to the battery and see what happens' or 'fit a polarity converter from Maplins'. The main issue is that the case itself is grounded as only one wire enters the unit. Isolating it is not easy and may be impossible.
That is a problem for later and all things electronic will be left until after the car is roadworthy, but I thought I would look at it before fitting the dashboard. I will just leave the clock disconnected.
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Re: Early Javelin Restoration
Yesterday completed the rewiring of the dash panel and today the new t pieces were replenished so completed the two chrome strips on the front. More connectors arrived so should finish the wiring and check it all out.
Currently trying to find the surround that goes around the clock and indicators!
Currently trying to find the surround that goes around the clock and indicators!
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Re: Early Javelin Restoration
So the testing revealed the petrol gauge failing so a check showed no earth on tank sender but also no 70 ohm resistance so had to do some very delicate soldering to attach fine wire which had broken. Dash panels now installed (but not found clock surround) and speedo connected but will need to check out. Also will need to check water temp gauge.
Trafficators work but no bulbs were put in before installation! I think Peter may want flashing LEDs.
Wiper is not working but the motor is getting hot so maybe the mechanics is jammed. Should have been tested on installation. Something to start on tomorrow. Then on to testing lights.
Trafficators work but no bulbs were put in before installation! I think Peter may want flashing LEDs.
Wiper is not working but the motor is getting hot so maybe the mechanics is jammed. Should have been tested on installation. Something to start on tomorrow. Then on to testing lights.
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Re: Early Javelin Restoration
Well the previous post said I would look at the wiper motor. I took off the drive cover and disconnected the spiral drive cable. The motor still would not turn so checked voltages and the resistance which is 15 ohms. I then dismantled another motor to see what was what in an attempt to see how to turn the rotor. The bottom cover contains the bearings for the cogs.
This shows the top of the drive with the cover removed.
The two screws on one side and one on the other secure the magnetic circuit for the motor which when displaced reveal the field coils.
The brush cover is secured by three screws and also houses the end float adjustment for the rotor.
Careful turning of the spindle end allowed me to move the rotor. So that is what I will do when the wiper motor gets back on the priority list. For now it is disconnected. Interestingly the wiper motor indicator, which is next to the water temp gauge, works but is obliterated by the dash panel. So unless it shines through the water temp gauge would be useless.
As we found last Sunday, starting the engine after priming the pump worked but it died quickly. What is worse I noticed an oil leak on the top of the crankcase. That turned out to be a the oil pressure pipe that had only been tightened up a couple of turns.
So I spent 10 minutes cleaning the top of the engine.
Next the throttle pedal jammed. This turned out to be the activation arm to be loose so I added a few washers.
This was better but I think a sleeve will be needed to prevent the pedal arm from slipping above the activation arm.
Next was the check on the fuel. Once I had convinced myself it was not old petrol, since I connected a new can up to the input of the mechanical pump. I connected up an electric pump, first to the can and then to the tank.
The engine ran , so it was the pump. On removal I saw the push rod was missing, so one was sourced from another engine.
Next was the throttle which was running fast so I adjusted the central lock to get both throttles opening at the same time. I also fitted a shorter return spring. Now running smoothly and at the correct tick over.
So grill on.
This shows the top of the drive with the cover removed.
The two screws on one side and one on the other secure the magnetic circuit for the motor which when displaced reveal the field coils.
The brush cover is secured by three screws and also houses the end float adjustment for the rotor.
Careful turning of the spindle end allowed me to move the rotor. So that is what I will do when the wiper motor gets back on the priority list. For now it is disconnected. Interestingly the wiper motor indicator, which is next to the water temp gauge, works but is obliterated by the dash panel. So unless it shines through the water temp gauge would be useless.
As we found last Sunday, starting the engine after priming the pump worked but it died quickly. What is worse I noticed an oil leak on the top of the crankcase. That turned out to be a the oil pressure pipe that had only been tightened up a couple of turns.
So I spent 10 minutes cleaning the top of the engine.Next the throttle pedal jammed. This turned out to be the activation arm to be loose so I added a few washers.
This was better but I think a sleeve will be needed to prevent the pedal arm from slipping above the activation arm.
Next was the check on the fuel. Once I had convinced myself it was not old petrol, since I connected a new can up to the input of the mechanical pump. I connected up an electric pump, first to the can and then to the tank.
The engine ran , so it was the pump. On removal I saw the push rod was missing, so one was sourced from another engine.
Next was the throttle which was running fast so I adjusted the central lock to get both throttles opening at the same time. I also fitted a shorter return spring. Now running smoothly and at the correct tick over.
So grill on.
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Resto Show report
There is a part of the story missing from this topic which is covered in the Resto Show Report.
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The report from Chris
May 8, 2017
Small update as I spent a couple of days getting a few things done - the car is now with a fellow Jowett owner in his workshop - wiring harness is now in and the connecting has commenced
Front windscreen fitted - no mean feat this - has to be fitted in stages from the inside out (I am no stranger to automotive glazing) but this is a PITA - The Javelin was the first production car with a curved windscreen and the process of fitting although with a rubber is quite unorthodox / unconventional and takes a lot patience / several hours - once in the battle recommences with the fitting of the chrome finisher which can only be refitted once the screen is in
It is all time consuming at this stage - lots of parts have to be made up / shaped to pattern such as the glass felts for the door skin edges - the radius edges have to be formed and the spring steel retaining clips have to be hand made
Jul 23, 2017
Peter the car's owner (resides in Switzerland) came over to the UK along with Hans another Swiss residing Javelin owner at the start of week - the car is now being kept at Keith's who resides in Hertfordshire (Keith owns the Jowett Jupiter that I am currently restoring) - anyhow all 3 of them have been stuck into the Javelin rebuild this last week - all the drive train has completed along with the underbody, new floor (ply) has been templated, cut & fitted, the new wiring harness has had all the terminals soldered on, dash board assembled and loads of other odds - a few fellow members have also called in through the week to assist where possible (really demonstrates the meaning of a helpful & friendly owners club)
Due to my current workload - I could only spare yesterday to go over and help out - mainstay of my visit was to resolve some of the body trim / finer details - so I sorted the rest of the outer weather strips for the door windows these have to have the radius ends shaped to them prior to fitting - one of the major hurdles was to sort the fitting of the chrome trims to the side & bonnet panels - problem being with all the trims having been rechromed they have a little more spring / sprain in them than you would like - the factory trim clips rust out and no longer available and even what we could salvage were not strong enough to retain the trim flush to the panels image below shows an original clip alongside part of my solution
The T stud is Mk3 Cortina - being threaded it can pull the trim flush with the panel - next problem being is stopping them from turning inside the trim whilst they are tightened up - so I marked the trim up in line with the panel aperture holes
- located the T stud in the trim and retained it with piece of rubber extrusion (cut down from some wing piping) - placed under the stud like so -
Job sorted
Apart from I have run out of T studs and need to order another 10
Then sorted the headlining / trim retaining bead (well sort of) Its a paper wrapped compressed wood rope type thing into which you can tack retaining clips / staples to retain the headlining
This is tapped into a bodyshell rebate that follows the D post / roof line - then retained by metal tags that are folded over it
Quite a few other bits and pieces sorted
Trafficators fitted
Small update as I spent a couple of days getting a few things done - the car is now with a fellow Jowett owner in his workshop - wiring harness is now in and the connecting has commenced
Front windscreen fitted - no mean feat this - has to be fitted in stages from the inside out (I am no stranger to automotive glazing) but this is a PITA - The Javelin was the first production car with a curved windscreen and the process of fitting although with a rubber is quite unorthodox / unconventional and takes a lot patience / several hours - once in the battle recommences with the fitting of the chrome finisher which can only be refitted once the screen is in
It is all time consuming at this stage - lots of parts have to be made up / shaped to pattern such as the glass felts for the door skin edges - the radius edges have to be formed and the spring steel retaining clips have to be hand made
Jul 23, 2017
Peter the car's owner (resides in Switzerland) came over to the UK along with Hans another Swiss residing Javelin owner at the start of week - the car is now being kept at Keith's who resides in Hertfordshire (Keith owns the Jowett Jupiter that I am currently restoring) - anyhow all 3 of them have been stuck into the Javelin rebuild this last week - all the drive train has completed along with the underbody, new floor (ply) has been templated, cut & fitted, the new wiring harness has had all the terminals soldered on, dash board assembled and loads of other odds - a few fellow members have also called in through the week to assist where possible (really demonstrates the meaning of a helpful & friendly owners club)
Due to my current workload - I could only spare yesterday to go over and help out - mainstay of my visit was to resolve some of the body trim / finer details - so I sorted the rest of the outer weather strips for the door windows these have to have the radius ends shaped to them prior to fitting - one of the major hurdles was to sort the fitting of the chrome trims to the side & bonnet panels - problem being with all the trims having been rechromed they have a little more spring / sprain in them than you would like - the factory trim clips rust out and no longer available and even what we could salvage were not strong enough to retain the trim flush to the panels image below shows an original clip alongside part of my solution
The T stud is Mk3 Cortina - being threaded it can pull the trim flush with the panel - next problem being is stopping them from turning inside the trim whilst they are tightened up - so I marked the trim up in line with the panel aperture holes
- located the T stud in the trim and retained it with piece of rubber extrusion (cut down from some wing piping) - placed under the stud like so -
Job sorted
Apart from I have run out of T studs and need to order another 10
Then sorted the headlining / trim retaining bead (well sort of) Its a paper wrapped compressed wood rope type thing into which you can tack retaining clips / staples to retain the headlining
This is tapped into a bodyshell rebate that follows the D post / roof line - then retained by metal tags that are folded over it
Quite a few other bits and pieces sorted
Trafficators fitted
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Keith Clements
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Door furniture
The past three days have been spent battling with the doors. Why so long?
Part of the time is spent finding parts, especially the fixings, some of the time is spent figuring out where things go and how to get them in. The rest of the time is struggling putting the plan into action and then having to undo what you have done and do it again. See here the very similar Jowett components with different threads which can trap the unwary. Always check which thread is required, if necessary with a thread pitch gauge but note that some threads have the same pitch but a different profile or a different core diameter. It should be possible to screw the fastening in with the fingers at least 4 turns. BSF, BSW, BA and occasionally UNF, METRIC fine and BSP are present on Jowetts. You also need to use the correct size self tappers if you do not want them to shake loose or break. It is extremely difficult to remove a sheared self tapper.
First the door latches were fitted but the previously fitted exterior handles had to be removed to get them in. I also had to find a stripped front door to find out how to get the mechanism into position. They only just go through the square cut-out and at a particular angle. You also need to operate the catch to pull the mechanism in to get it past the door frame. Then you have to manoeuvre the handle spindle into the slot and move it upwards. Once again opening the latch with the handle to get it positioned. Then the exterior handle needs to be inserted and juggled into the open position with a combination of opening it in conjunction with the interior handle to get the operating lever correctly positioned. A check to see everything is operational is required before bolting up.
Having achieved all that on three of the handles I then checked the locking mechanisms. Two were very stiff and needed more force than I would normally apply to free. The rear nearside would not work and after more investigating I decided that the driver's latch had to be swapped! The driver's side does not have a lock as that is accomplished by the key lock.
Then onto fitting the glass and its channel. The previously fitted scraper strips needed to be redone to align with the channel. Some strips needed trimming.
Next problem was getting the glass in. Once again the stripped door was used as a trial. It may be possible to get the front glass in through the top (like you can at the rear) but only with the scraper removed and it is dangerous as you might scrape the paint. Anyway I had fitted the scraper anyway and sealed it with silicone so I persevered with getting through the bottom aperture. On the driver's side this was done with pointy end downwards. It was an extremely tight fit and hampered by the chrome strip fixings, which in hindsight should have been shortened but even then there may not have been enough clearance. Better to get the glass in before fitting chrome strip. The glass can sit at the bottom of the door whilst fitting the chrome strip.
The passenger side door glass was similarly put in place but was even more of a struggle.
Also, after doing the front two doors, I decided that putting the glass in before fitting the channel makes it easier as you can use the glass to fit the channel properly.
I first marked the holes for the No 6 x 1/2inch stainless steel slotted pan head screws.
Then fitted the channel into the short (front) side and moulded it around the corners, holding in with plastic clips.
The channel was then routed outside the door to mark off the length and cut it with a hacksaw. Then I fed back inside the door. The top was fitted first, drilling a hole in the channel to line up with the hole in the door. The screw was held with a pair of tweezers.
Some of the channels had a clip at the bottom which held the rubber and fabric U channel but others did not.
The channel was glued using Gorilla which expands a bit on curing. The channel was held in place overnight by sliding the glass down and making sure it pressured the channel correctly.
The channel on one of the doors was loose as the braze had broken, so after careful alignment and clamping a 6 BA tapping hole was drilled and threaded and a screw inserted.
The window winder mechanisms also take some cajoling into place. At the rear, first get the winder to almost fully down position and manoeuvre the two wheels into the runner channel at the bottom of the window. I positioned the winder mechanism with the spindle in the larger hole below the one where it normally sits. Then this can be levered into position once the runners are in.
In the front the procedure was even harder, this time the glass was positioned near the top and the mechanism wound to fully up. The mechanism was positioned in the triangular slot next to the rear of the large hole below it is normally sat.
Careful use of a large screwdriver got the front runner in place and then the whole mechanism was pulled forward whilst using the screwdriver to align the rear runner into place. Not easy!
Then there was a struggle to move mechanism forward and up to get it to where it should be. I feel sure there must be an easier way but I have not found it!
Part of the time is spent finding parts, especially the fixings, some of the time is spent figuring out where things go and how to get them in. The rest of the time is struggling putting the plan into action and then having to undo what you have done and do it again. See here the very similar Jowett components with different threads which can trap the unwary. Always check which thread is required, if necessary with a thread pitch gauge but note that some threads have the same pitch but a different profile or a different core diameter. It should be possible to screw the fastening in with the fingers at least 4 turns. BSF, BSW, BA and occasionally UNF, METRIC fine and BSP are present on Jowetts. You also need to use the correct size self tappers if you do not want them to shake loose or break. It is extremely difficult to remove a sheared self tapper.
First the door latches were fitted but the previously fitted exterior handles had to be removed to get them in. I also had to find a stripped front door to find out how to get the mechanism into position. They only just go through the square cut-out and at a particular angle. You also need to operate the catch to pull the mechanism in to get it past the door frame. Then you have to manoeuvre the handle spindle into the slot and move it upwards. Once again opening the latch with the handle to get it positioned. Then the exterior handle needs to be inserted and juggled into the open position with a combination of opening it in conjunction with the interior handle to get the operating lever correctly positioned. A check to see everything is operational is required before bolting up.
Having achieved all that on three of the handles I then checked the locking mechanisms. Two were very stiff and needed more force than I would normally apply to free. The rear nearside would not work and after more investigating I decided that the driver's latch had to be swapped! The driver's side does not have a lock as that is accomplished by the key lock.
Then onto fitting the glass and its channel. The previously fitted scraper strips needed to be redone to align with the channel. Some strips needed trimming.
Next problem was getting the glass in. Once again the stripped door was used as a trial. It may be possible to get the front glass in through the top (like you can at the rear) but only with the scraper removed and it is dangerous as you might scrape the paint. Anyway I had fitted the scraper anyway and sealed it with silicone so I persevered with getting through the bottom aperture. On the driver's side this was done with pointy end downwards. It was an extremely tight fit and hampered by the chrome strip fixings, which in hindsight should have been shortened but even then there may not have been enough clearance. Better to get the glass in before fitting chrome strip. The glass can sit at the bottom of the door whilst fitting the chrome strip.
The passenger side door glass was similarly put in place but was even more of a struggle.
Also, after doing the front two doors, I decided that putting the glass in before fitting the channel makes it easier as you can use the glass to fit the channel properly.
I first marked the holes for the No 6 x 1/2inch stainless steel slotted pan head screws.
Then fitted the channel into the short (front) side and moulded it around the corners, holding in with plastic clips.
The channel was then routed outside the door to mark off the length and cut it with a hacksaw. Then I fed back inside the door. The top was fitted first, drilling a hole in the channel to line up with the hole in the door. The screw was held with a pair of tweezers.
Some of the channels had a clip at the bottom which held the rubber and fabric U channel but others did not.
The channel was glued using Gorilla which expands a bit on curing. The channel was held in place overnight by sliding the glass down and making sure it pressured the channel correctly.
The channel on one of the doors was loose as the braze had broken, so after careful alignment and clamping a 6 BA tapping hole was drilled and threaded and a screw inserted.
The window winder mechanisms also take some cajoling into place. At the rear, first get the winder to almost fully down position and manoeuvre the two wheels into the runner channel at the bottom of the window. I positioned the winder mechanism with the spindle in the larger hole below the one where it normally sits. Then this can be levered into position once the runners are in.
In the front the procedure was even harder, this time the glass was positioned near the top and the mechanism wound to fully up. The mechanism was positioned in the triangular slot next to the rear of the large hole below it is normally sat.
Careful use of a large screwdriver got the front runner in place and then the whole mechanism was pulled forward whilst using the screwdriver to align the rear runner into place. Not easy!
Then there was a struggle to move mechanism forward and up to get it to where it should be. I feel sure there must be an easier way but I have not found it!
Last edited by Keith Clements on Fri Aug 04, 2017 9:42 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Keith Clements
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The wiper motor
After finishing the doors, I rerouted the heater hose and then took the end cover off the wiper motor. There was a grinding sound when I turned the spindle and the unit was full of sand. So I took it off and gave it a good clean and re-grease. I checked each pole of the commutator for resistance which seemed ok. Cleaned up the commutator and tested again. No joy. So checked another unit which worked but was very rusty, so took the rotor and brushes out of that and hey presto a working unit.
But the moral to this episode is to check all components before fixing and after fixing, before connecting up to the supply. Another thing to watch on installation is that you do not clamp the slider. On first installation today that was the case and I immediately switched the motor off. I loosened the screws, examined, repositioned the motor so that the coil was at maximum extension, refitted the cover and then did the screws up finger tight. Tested the motor for freedom of running and left it running whilst tightening the screws to check its note did not change.
So working wipers.
But the moral to this episode is to check all components before fixing and after fixing, before connecting up to the supply. Another thing to watch on installation is that you do not clamp the slider. On first installation today that was the case and I immediately switched the motor off. I loosened the screws, examined, repositioned the motor so that the coil was at maximum extension, refitted the cover and then did the screws up finger tight. Tested the motor for freedom of running and left it running whilst tightening the screws to check its note did not change.
So working wipers.
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Keith Clements
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Re: Early Javelin Restoration
The flashing trafficator video.
After a lot of fettling the trafficators operate smoothly and flash. The spring inside and the chrome cover needed cleaning to obtain an electric circuit.
The offside needed the holes to be extended and some packing.
The rear lamp was wired up as a reversing light ( with o rings around the screw and base to protect the glass) and a bracket and switch constructed and adjusted for the gearbox.
In addition I disassembled the exhaust pipe mid section to turn it around to cut a slice off because it hit the chassis at the mid support.
After a lot of fettling the trafficators operate smoothly and flash. The spring inside and the chrome cover needed cleaning to obtain an electric circuit.
The offside needed the holes to be extended and some packing.
The rear lamp was wired up as a reversing light ( with o rings around the screw and base to protect the glass) and a bracket and switch constructed and adjusted for the gearbox.
In addition I disassembled the exhaust pipe mid section to turn it around to cut a slice off because it hit the chassis at the mid support.
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Last edited by Keith Clements on Mon Aug 07, 2017 10:08 pm, edited 2 times in total.
skype = keithaclements ;
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Keith Clements
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- Posts: 3968
- Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2006 11:22 am
- Your interest in the forum: Jup NKD 258, the most widely travelled , raced and rallied Jowett.
- Given Name: Keith
- Contact:
Horny
I tested the horns last night to discover the slip ring on the steering column was shorting. This was replaced and tested before going to the Resto show. But it had been knocked on installation and moved along the shaft so the wire that is soldered to the ring and goes through a hole in the shaft touched the shaft. So nothing for it to take the accelerator pedal off to get at the screws that hold the outside of the column, undo the bolts and U clamp and extract the shaft. Sure enough the ring moved on the shaft so was cleaned with panel wipe and Gorilla glue used to fix in position in the middle of the hole.
So now on coffee break waiting for the glue to set. I was down the garage at 7.30 on a Sunday morning 
to try to get everything sorted so the car can be at Goodwood.
There is also a problem with the indicators. Somehow the wiring loom has wires crossed from left to right side at the rear! But at least one winker works! Also connecting them has stopped the offside trafficator working, so out with the diagnostic kit.
The first thing this morning I got some exercise and fitted the spare wheel spring clamp. Good for the stomach muscles.
Those using this picture to see how it is assembled should note the big washer goes between spring and convex disc.
Youtube just starting playing this video and it made me realise that we always did have a problem with the petrol pump!
to try to get everything sorted so the car can be at Goodwood.There is also a problem with the indicators. Somehow the wiring loom has wires crossed from left to right side at the rear! But at least one winker works! Also connecting them has stopped the offside trafficator working, so out with the diagnostic kit.
The first thing this morning I got some exercise and fitted the spare wheel spring clamp. Good for the stomach muscles.
Those using this picture to see how it is assembled should note the big washer goes between spring and convex disc.
Youtube just starting playing this video and it made me realise that we always did have a problem with the petrol pump!
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