Great SC rebuild.......

[Keith Clements]

https://www.europaspares.com/BRIGHTWORK ... _3369.html
I guess I am going to have to raid the piggy bank!

[Keith Clements]

Ignition lock removal.
The key needs to be in the ignition lock in order to remove the lock. There is a small hole in the side of the switch assembly between the instrument panel and the wire clamp. When the switch is mounted in the panel the hole is at the bottom of the switch. The headlamp switch needs to be in the off position for the hole to be open. This hole reaches down to where a spring loaded pin resides on the lock assembly. You need a very fine phillips screwdriver to push the pin down and release the lock assembly.

The hole in the switch body is in line with the lock assembly's spring loaded pin somewhere between the off and on position. Push the screwdriver into the hole and slowly rotate the key. You can feel the point go in a little farther when the pin is lined up with the hole. Press down on the screwdriver and gently pull on the key to remove the lock assembly.

Ignition lock installation
The key must be in the lock assembly when you install it into a switch. You will need to line the lock assembly up so that the retractable pin is on the same side as the release hole. Push the lock assembly into the the switch body. The pin automatically locks into place inside the switch body.

Headlamp switch lever removal
The phenolic headlamp switch lever is held in place by a single spring loaded metal pin. The pin fits into a hole in the side of the phenolic light switch lever. The hole faces the bottom of a mounted switch.

Insert a punch into the hole to depress the pin while pulling on the knob. You need to press the pin down to the surface level without inserting the punch into the hole that your pin is retracting into. If you do, your punch will keep the knob locked into place

Headlamp switch lever installation
To replace the knob, line the retractable pin up with the hole and slide the knob onto the switch. The pin autoundically locks the knob into place.

[Forumadmin]

Progress last week on the SC was fitting the rear section which involved shaping the new aluminium at the back of the door and aligning the rear wings, sanding the rear wings, alinging the boot hinge support, and the really tricky job of making the boot catch retaining plates and fitting (unbelievable Jowett engineering!!)

[Forumadmin]

SC boot lock.

Looks like we need a new lock but I am intrigued to know how it is supposed to work.
I think there is a cam broken off the lock barrel, missing square lock bolts and a very weak design of latch bar. Anybody any part or picture of them or know where to get them?

[Amy]

Right, we're getting there. But we just don't have enough hands / hours in the day to get everything done ourselves if I'm to be driving the SC to Wakefield this May. So, please see here http://jowett.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1375
for the official SC rebuild party / free beer thread

Amy.

[Bryan Walker]

The handle and lock looks very much like some that are used on ute canopies these days. So finding how it works should not be to hard.

[Keith Clements]

This weekend's photos in Gallery
TOPIC

[Keith Clements]

Managed to find the nearside Jup engine mounting bracket; but not the offside one. Has anybody a spare please? I reckon I may be able to modify a Javelin one; but it is work I do without.

[Alastair Gregg]

If you would post a picture, I promise to have a rummage .

[Forumadmin]

The engine is in without brackets. See photos in
gallery2.php?g2_itemId=11136&g2_page=2



Note we need the other hand, as we have the nearside.

Also fitted draft seal on petrol pipe.

[Forumadmin]

First job was to do a bit more aluminium welding on the rear section. One of the wing holes had been strained and a crack needed fixing. Then we went off to see the rugby in a cinema in glorious 3D. Unfortunately England lost.

Sunday, Amy and Jack trial fitted the exhaust system whilst Jen and I watched Saracens loose. I drum at the game to encourage the team; but it obviously has stopped working.

As you might expect some modifications were required to the exhaust system. The front section to the silencer just about fitted, requiring only some bending of the bracket. The face onto the manifold is not square but hopefully will tighten up flush. Not too happy about that so may try to alter. It also needed shortening by 4 inches to allow fitting the the first silencer. The rear pipe was not quite in alignment, so Jack extended its bracket. The bracket over the diff was totally in the wrong place so it was removed and Jack made another . This evening I welded it on, and also moved the bracket on the rear silencer as there was not enough overlap on the pipes and the tailpipe stuck out too far.

Also welded up the fan support bracket that had broken. Open garage this weekend so please phone if you intend to come.

[Keith Clements]

The great SC rebuild was interupted slightly with some work on Jack's
2.8 Capri-. A stubborn number plate light fitting resisted impact drivers and all manner of swearing. Exhaust mount rubbers also proved troublesome.

The new brake cylinders on the SC fitted 25 years ago had seized so some new ones from the Rally spares are now on the car. They were assembled with brake fluid which of course is hygroscopic. Now assembled with Silicone Fluid so no such problems in future. Master cylinder had to be adjusted by making sure all pipes did not touch anywhere so that the piston returned freely. It is amazing how sensitive it is to requiring freedom to move. If it does not, of course, you run out of brakes very quickly. Front brakes are next on the list.

As mentioned in the Free Beer thread, the exhaust is now on having been adjusted with some bending and welding. One door has been refurbished with aluminium at the bottom 20 cm rather than steel which rusts and reacts with the aly skin. Rear section is painted and ready for final fit so that it can be aligned with the doors.

[Keith Clements]

Returning from the exec I did a few hours work on the bottom part of the other door and completed it on Sunday. There are a few bits more to do as I noticed a crack in the usual place by the quarter light and a break in the slot where the winder gear goes through the upright. A look this evening did not profer any ideas on how to fix. So will need to think about it some more.

Two days of solid work will be needed this weekend to have a hope of making Wakefield.

Please make an effort to come and assist this weekend.

[Leo Bolter]

Keep thinking Keith. I'm sure I remember my Jupiter having cracks where the arrow is pointing and doing something about it.


THE PESKY CRACK

I'm sorry I don't recollect just what I did ( it must be 30 years ago!), but I vaguely remember welding the crack (of course!) and also welding a reinforcing gusset across the crackable area, underneath. Anyway if that's what I managed to nut out, I'm sure you can work something satisfactory out too

I just went out to the car and had a poke and feel about through the window orifice with a wee hook in a piece of welding wire . . I thought I could feel something, but I'm not sure. I could possibly see/feel more if I took the door trim off, but I'll only do that if you don't work something out for yourself . . . and you insist So, keep stirring up the brain cells . . .

I do hope you are inundated with assistance in the next few days

Best regards,
Leo.

[Forumadmin]

Exactly. Driver's side of course. Will try to add some stiffness to the quarter light support. Offers rolling in. Should be a party!