looks as if the white 'smoke' is just condensation so as long as the water in rad is not being lost in large quantities all is probably ok. (pre war non pressurised radiators do lose water naturally through evaporation & so do need checking regularly eg weekly and/or before any longish run) and 2 or 3 times on route to Scotland!.
If oil leak from timing case continues to prove troublesome it may be worth considering another of Roy Braddocks 'modifications'. Remove timing cover and drill a small (1/8") hole at the bottom of the timing chest into the sump, this prevents accumulation of oil in timing case whilst still retaining enough for adequaote lubrocation of chain etc.
george
Oil level indicator cap.
-
AlanBartlett
- Posts: 759
- Joined: Wed Sep 27, 2006 1:34 pm
- Your interest in the forum: 1934 Long Saloon
1935 Weasel Sports Tourer
1936 Jowett Lorry (A basket case)
1953 Jowett Bradford Lorry - Given Name: Alan
- Location: Somerset
I did say earlier about the oil guage not reading, well i sorted that problem out, now it seems to be going crazy. first it will start off when cold at about 25 - 30 and now it goes down to under 10 randomly halfway thru a journey, the oil is going to the guage as ive checked the flow and its still flowing up.
"Don't Let The Sound Of Your Own Wheels Drive You Crazy" The Eagles, Take It Easy
-
ian Howell
- Posts: 963
- Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2006 10:46 am
- Your interest in the forum: From 1962 to '63, CA Bradord LLG 125 (Repaired and used).
From 1966 to '67 Black deLuxe Javelin LDF 738 (Scrapped with broken chassis)
From 1967 to '87 Black de Luxe Javelin MKC 1 (later 6469TU). (Sold as non-runner with tons of spares, 1987)
From about 1980 to '87 ex WD Jowett stationary engine. (Sold on)
From 1966 to present, 1930 Long Four Fabric Saloon, Dark Blue / Black.
Taken in a part-repaired state to the 2010 Centenary Rally, returned to a roadworthy state by 2013. - Given Name: Ian
- Location: Eastbourne, East Sussex, England
- Contact:
Alan: - NO problem!
When the oil and engine are cold, the oil is 'thicker' and so a higher pressure will be created by the oil pump - up to the pressure that the relief valve 'blows' at - about 25 psi. It may still register a higher pressure if the oil can't get away quick enough.
Once warm - and especially if the bearings or pump are worn - the pressure will drop to about the figure you mention. In fact, that seems OK for car in the condition of yours (no criticism intended!).
You seem to indicate that the pressure drops suddenly during a journey. Seems odd but perhaps I misunderstand?
Incidentally, when I had a Bradford back in the 60's, the oil pressure was usually several OUNCES psi when warm!. The guage was useful to indicate a total lack of oil when the oil sloshed to one side of the sump when going round corners!
When the oil and engine are cold, the oil is 'thicker' and so a higher pressure will be created by the oil pump - up to the pressure that the relief valve 'blows' at - about 25 psi. It may still register a higher pressure if the oil can't get away quick enough.
Once warm - and especially if the bearings or pump are worn - the pressure will drop to about the figure you mention. In fact, that seems OK for car in the condition of yours (no criticism intended!).
You seem to indicate that the pressure drops suddenly during a journey. Seems odd but perhaps I misunderstand?
Incidentally, when I had a Bradford back in the 60's, the oil pressure was usually several OUNCES psi when warm!. The guage was useful to indicate a total lack of oil when the oil sloshed to one side of the sump when going round corners!
The devil is in the detail!
-
AlanBartlett
- Posts: 759
- Joined: Wed Sep 27, 2006 1:34 pm
- Your interest in the forum: 1934 Long Saloon
1935 Weasel Sports Tourer
1936 Jowett Lorry (A basket case)
1953 Jowett Bradford Lorry - Given Name: Alan
- Location: Somerset
Hi Ian,
The reason I query is because its only recently started dropping below 10, where as before and Ive been about 200miles in maybe more it seem to start cold at 25 - 30 then when warm just under 20, I was just questioning the now drop to below 10. Maybe things are settling down.
The reason I query is because its only recently started dropping below 10, where as before and Ive been about 200miles in maybe more it seem to start cold at 25 - 30 then when warm just under 20, I was just questioning the now drop to below 10. Maybe things are settling down.
"Don't Let The Sound Of Your Own Wheels Drive You Crazy" The Eagles, Take It Easy
-
Tony Fearn
- Posts: 1743
- Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2006 5:33 pm
- Your interest in the forum: Early pre-wars. Owner of 1933 'Flying Fox' 'Sarah Jane, and 1934 Short saloon 'Mary Ellen'.
- Given Name: Anthony
- Location: Clayton le Moors, Lancashire, the Premier County in the British Isles!!
Helo Alan.
There's a brass casting at the rear of the engine block which has a screw and a lock nut that allows a degree of change of oil pressure as far as I'm aware. Perhaps the attached sketch may help. Of course, if the bearings, pump and/or bores or rings etc are worn it may not be possible to increase the pressure, but try the simple things first.
Regards,
Tony.
There's a brass casting at the rear of the engine block which has a screw and a lock nut that allows a degree of change of oil pressure as far as I'm aware. Perhaps the attached sketch may help. Of course, if the bearings, pump and/or bores or rings etc are worn it may not be possible to increase the pressure, but try the simple things first.
Regards,
Tony.
-
george garside
- Posts: 673
- Joined: Sun Feb 12, 2006 9:47 pm
- Location: formby , merseyside
may also be wrth while completely unscrewing the pressure relief valve as per Tony's diagram in order to
1 - check that the spring is not broken
2. clean any crap off the plunger as this (if any) may have the effect of keeping the plunger slightly 'lifted' thus reducing pressure.
3. the spring itself may have weekened with age but I have no idea what its original strength was. If you have a spare spring you could try putting both the existing spring and the spare spring together (like one long spring) in a vice and then closing the jaws to compress the 'long' spring. If both are of the same strength they (i.e. each individual spring) will compress by more or less the same amount, If one is weaaker it will compress more than the stronger one. (this method can also be used to test valve springs if you have one new one or at least to select the best of the bunch).
george
1 - check that the spring is not broken
2. clean any crap off the plunger as this (if any) may have the effect of keeping the plunger slightly 'lifted' thus reducing pressure.
3. the spring itself may have weekened with age but I have no idea what its original strength was. If you have a spare spring you could try putting both the existing spring and the spare spring together (like one long spring) in a vice and then closing the jaws to compress the 'long' spring. If both are of the same strength they (i.e. each individual spring) will compress by more or less the same amount, If one is weaaker it will compress more than the stronger one. (this method can also be used to test valve springs if you have one new one or at least to select the best of the bunch).
george