Replacing Front Wheel Studs - Hydromechanical Brakes

[Forumadmin]

No definately not. The front hub torque is about 30 lb ft. I do not think it is specified anywhere. It could probably take a lot more if you need to reach a split-pin hole.

More research necessary!

[David Morris]

Hi Tony,

Thanks for your post. No, the front hubs are entirely different. The rear axle nut needs to be done up as tight as in the video. The front ones are tightened to a much lower torque. Neither of us can find the setting, but I would guess that around 30lb.ft would be about right? It means you need to align the split pin hole, which is more important, so don't back it off, just go further.

Hope this helps,

David

[David Morris]

Hi Tony,

Yes, you are right that JCS are quite a long way away! I hadn't looked closely enough at your location!

I guess that your nearest bearing supplier should be able to match the bearings, as they are quite a normal size, and you being in the USA means you still live in the 'imperial' world for sizing?

The grease seals may be a little more difficult? But I guess there should be something on the shelf, if your stockists don't mind looking through the catalogs? It's aways worth having a look through eBay as well? I got some hard-to-source parts from someone in Malta, who had some NOS stuff on the shelf and was happy to post. But be careful, some things, like seals, don't like being stored in the heat! However, I am sure JCS will post anything you need out to you? If you haven't already done it, I would download a copy of the early pre-1950 parts list from the technical information part of the website. When ordering from JCS, it really helps you and them by quoting the exact part numbers that suit you car, I suspect the later full hydraulic cars have different part numbers for the seals and bearings?

All the best,

David

[David Morris]

Hi Tony,

Try JCS first, but if you are stuck, have a look at UK eBay item number 324347031766. The seller gives the dimensions, so you can check first?

All the best,

David

[Forumadmin]

I use sealed for life bearings so no worries with greasing or oil seals. A good bearing supplier should have no problems replacing. I would need to check early front wheel bearing sizeswhich should be on bearings you take out.

[trymes]

Many thanks for the eBay link, David. The seller doesn't ship internationally, but I did reach out to see if they would consider it. Looking at the construction, I'm not really certain that it matters if the foam has separated from the metal, truth be told. I do notice that the foam on the outer seal is stationary, while the outer bearing on which it rides rotates under it. I'm a bit surprised to see that type of built-in friction, but I suppose the grease is enough to make it work.

[Forumadmin]

Para 125 of download/file.php?id=25520 shows stub axle replacement procedure. Nip up tight is the torque!

[Forumadmin]

If you are doing the rear axle read this. viewtopic.php?p=17738&hilit=Bearing#p17738

[David Morris]

Hi Keith,

Thanks for your two posts above. For the Front Wheel Studs attachment, Para. 125, it says 'You are not authorised to download this attachment'.

The other one works fine!

Many thanks,

David

[Forumadmin]

The reason you get the not authorised message is because you were not logged into JT or are not in the Club Members JT group. You can check if you are in the group.
I have been unsuccessful finding where the message is stored in the software so as to change the message.

[Keith Clements]

You can check which groups you are in by clicking on the down arrow next to your name and choosing Profile from the drop down menu.