Thanks everyone , you have provided many thought provoking ideas some of which I have tried and some of which deserve to be tried and at the end of everything I have to get the car right .
To sumarise points from every responder I think the basics are 1.timing correct 2. mixture correct 3.air in needs to have no obstructions 4 radiator shrouding probably needed 5. air exit needed.6 water flow through radiator needs to be good
Another couple of serious points. If the temperature is too high there is a risk of cylinder head gasket problems and yes peter street cred is important and finally if the car overheats it gets left in the garage and not used as much as it should be ie confidence factor
Jupiter engine cooling
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chapman
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Re: Jupiter engine cooling
I moved ignition coil, horns, wires and anything else that would move away from the flow into the rad. Also sealed with metal, foam and card so that little air could go over rad between it and the bonnet. Of course have side wings that funnel air towards rad. Never have tried to seal below rad to force even more air up to the rad.
May help to remove any washer bottles and other obstructions to air flow behind rad as well.
SA oil cooler is above gearbox in a good air flow, allbeit slightly warmed by the rad exhaust air.
May help to remove any washer bottles and other obstructions to air flow behind rad as well.
SA oil cooler is above gearbox in a good air flow, allbeit slightly warmed by the rad exhaust air.
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Keith Andrews
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Re: Jupiter engine cooling
I left the radiator cap off the list....very often over looked...and very often the wrong pressure
If redirecting or putting extra fans on helps....as I mentioned in previous posts, this is a 'patch fix' covering the basic fault, which in this case is usually blocked cores.
I will mention a 'false postive' this is where the radiator is filled, taken for a run then water spews out the top as if overheated.....it hasnt over heated, it is just the water level is too high and explelling what should not be there
And what temp is too high? above getting into engine damage...
idiot light warnings are generally ranges between 225 and 235 Deg F depending on the pressure ratting of the cap.
Boiling piont is 212 deg.
Normal running temps for most car engines is around the 180 to 195 deg.
On a stock cooling system, it will never run over 5 to 7 degs above the rating of the thermostat..no matter what you are towing or ambiant temps...if it does it is a sympotom something is wrong in the system
The only exception is if the engine is tuned for low altudes and you head into the mountains...be it summer or snow.
If redirecting or putting extra fans on helps....as I mentioned in previous posts, this is a 'patch fix' covering the basic fault, which in this case is usually blocked cores.
I will mention a 'false postive' this is where the radiator is filled, taken for a run then water spews out the top as if overheated.....it hasnt over heated, it is just the water level is too high and explelling what should not be there
And what temp is too high? above getting into engine damage...
idiot light warnings are generally ranges between 225 and 235 Deg F depending on the pressure ratting of the cap.
Boiling piont is 212 deg.
Normal running temps for most car engines is around the 180 to 195 deg.
On a stock cooling system, it will never run over 5 to 7 degs above the rating of the thermostat..no matter what you are towing or ambiant temps...if it does it is a sympotom something is wrong in the system
The only exception is if the engine is tuned for low altudes and you head into the mountains...be it summer or snow.
My Spelling is Not Incorrect...It's 'Creative'