Oil leaks from the Rear Timing Cover - 50690

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David Morris
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Your interest in the forum: Jowett Javelins since 1964. Now a Jowett Stationary engine owner and club member since 1964.
Given Name: David
Location: Sunny Bristol

Oil leaks from the Rear Timing Cover - 50690

Post by David Morris »

Hi there,

Chris Cole and I have been most interested in this thread. We have not yet fitted an 'O' ring gasket to our engines, but the moment must be fast approaching! I guess it all depends how frustrated we get over oil drips on the garage and driveway floors!

In our measuring and comparisions we have sourced the necessary nitrile 'O' rings and we have discovered that one of the sizes given in Leo Bolter/Philip Dingle's excellent article seems to be incorrect.

What we believe you will need are 2 off 9.1 x 1.6mm rings and 1 off 13.1 x 1.6mm ring. You will find the 17.1 x 1.6mm rings quoted in the article are far too big.

I have purchased the rings mentioned above and, as they only come from my supplier in packets of 100, I will gladly send a set of three to anyone who would like to try the mod. Just let me know and some will be in the post.

By the way, from our initial comparisons of different rear timing covers, it seems that unfortunately there will not be a 'one size fits all' for the aluminium gasket, as there seem to be quite wide dimensional differences between the drillings in our two covers.

On my engine, I have just fitted the oil filter spin-on conversion and that, combined with a new rubber 'O' ring gasket on the filter conversion housing, seems to have considerably reduced the oil leaks.

However, I dream of a dry engine, as I guess do most Javelin and Jupiter owners, so look forward to fitting the aluminium gasket 'O' ring mod at some point in the future..........

All the best,

David
Mike Allfrey
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Location: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA.

Post by Mike Allfrey »

G'dday From The Still Sunny South,

Only 23 Degrees C forecast today. No rain unfortunately.

I think you have found the same as I did with respect to oil gallery position. This was my reason for plugging the crankcase drilling closest to the bolt hole and re-drilling further towards the crankcase centreline.

A tip, when assembling 'O' rings, they must seat fully on clean bare metal. There should be no sealant at contact points. The same applies to the water transfer 'O' rings, there should be no paint under them.

If there is sealant on the 'O' rings, they will become slippery and could be troublesome to install.

It is every Jowetteer's desire to have rust affected engine bolts!

Good luck!

Mike Allfrey.
E0 SA 42R; Rover 75
TedAllen
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Given Name: ted
Location: Manchester. The Rainy City

Post by TedAllen »

That last comment from Mike about the water transfer O rings is something I have thought about for some time.
I have had little success with the club's O rings. I believe that as they are round in section they are more liable to bulge out upon tightening. I have many times resorted to the old rings in frustration.
Surely it would be better if the rings were flat or square section, giving more surface area to seat well.
Rings cut from a rubber pipe of the correct bore may do the job if they can be cut accurately....any thoughts ?
Ted
Mike Allfrey
Posts: 491
Joined: Thu Apr 06, 2006 10:14 am
Your interest in the forum: It is a good vehicle for getting Jowett information to others.
Given Name: Michael
Location: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA.

Post by Mike Allfrey »

G'dday From The Cloudy But Dry South,

When I first became involved with Jowett Jupiter and Javelin engines, back in 1963, I made the same mistake as many others must have done. In those days, the Payen gasket sets were still freely available and they contained four round section 'O' rings (the black ones), and four flat rectangular section rubber rings of a beige colour (and softer). I made the mistake of using the beige rings at the water transfers and the black 'O' rings on the sparking plug covers. The very first lesson learnt was that the small bayonet lugs on the Bakelite plug covers broke off.

The second lesson learnt was that water seeped out at the water transfers using the soft rubber rings.

An 'O' ring works perfectly on the water transfers - provided there is no paint on either joint face. The assembly can be painted after the transfer housings have been tightened in place. They do not require tightening dead tight. Jowett Cars Limited used Simmonds self locking nuts here for a purpose - just nip up firmly.

With the use of modern coolants that contain glycol, if leakage occurs, further tightening will 'roll' the 'O' ring out at the slipperiest point. There is only one fix - drain the coolant, clean the contact surfaces, make sure they are dry and finally wipe clean with methylated spirits, and re-install the components - tightening a little further than previously. You will then have a dry engine for many years!

Regards,

Mike Allfrey.
E0 SA 42R; Rover 75
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