Bradford Steering rebuild/adjustment

[Keith Andrews]

Being new to Bradfords technology, Im going to be asking some rather basic questions.

Rebuilding steering box:
How do u guys rebuild the steering shaft the pitman arm goes on?
Would running a mig welder to build up worn sections, then turn down on the lath. Then bush the housing reem out to suit, be sufficent...I would not do this on a larger car with greater stresses.
The pin that fits into the worm drive, turn 90Deg to a unworn spot? tack weld to hold in place?
How much side play on the shaft, if any at all, at the bottom of the steering box when front wheels off the ground and steering all connected up?

Lubrication.
I have 6 old boxes , all have been packed with grease including the column, the manual says use a grease gun with heavy gear oil.
Surely this will run out the bottom, I see nothing other than a felt seal here, on some, this doesnt seem to be suffient???
Is there meant to be a seal or something?

Adjustable Ball joints:
What is the correct method of adjustment?
Pull the split pin, tighten up till solid resistance felt then back off...how much?
To tight I have been told, these will wear out very quickly, and causes heavy steering, to loose causes play in the steering???

Steering rod ends:
The screw on ends where the wheel alignment is adjusted.
Screwed up tight then backed off till nearest position the split pin fits??
At how many turns backing off to fit the pin would one consider that the inserts are worn and need replacement???

Wheel bearings:
Are these tigned up then backed off or left tight but no drag when the wheel is spun?

Steering wheel play:
A rebuilt front end, while driving, how much free play is there meant to be in the steering wheel at the center??

Cheers
Steps

[PAUL BEAUMONT]

Keith, I am mentioned in despatches on your engine questions, and can't help a lot there. I know that CB cranks are suspect if you try to overload them. CC is supposed to be more robust, but Personally I only have experience of breaking a CC one!
As to steering:
Rebuilding the box: I find that pressing the follower pin out and turning thru 90 usually does the trick. I have never needed to weld them - just press it back in! I believe that Roy Braddock (UK Jowett guru - now sadly deceased) used to skim the worms, presumably so that the follower contacted unworn worm.
There should not be any side play in the shaft. You also need to make sure that the bracket welded on the front cross member is sound. A bit of a Jowett bodge here especially on the CC. Welding in some reinforcing gussets are probably a good idea.
You are right, if you use oil it all quietly pees out of the bottom. There is only a felt seal. I have contemplated modification to fit an oil seal but I have never bothered - Dont know if anyone else has?? I use grease!
The ball joint on the bottom of the drop arm seems to have most influence on the famous Bradford wander. I apply hit and miss here, and adjust it as tight as I can bear regarding tight steering as this seems to reduce wandering to a minimum. I have toyed with the idea of making plastic (Maybe Delrin) parts to replace the brass ones - but not got to it yet - Any one else tried??
Track rod ends in my experience do not seem to give so much bother and I tighten these so that the rod feels reasonable when rocked from side to side - not a very quantitive reply here sorry
Wheel bearings are deep groove ball bearings and should be pulled up tight and not backed off. If the mating parts are correct the bearings should not bind.
Finally I find that you cannot mix some CC parts with earlier parts. The steering box chassis member is different and I believe the drop arm is.
I am sure others will have useful comments, hopefully these help a bit -

[Keith Andrews]

It is this sort info that the site needs.
Thank you
I have since found a mechanic who served his time working on 50s english cars.
He reconmends for setting the ball joints
1/lift front wheels clear of the ground under the axle
2/disconnect steering arms, ball joints
3/moving steering wheel full lock each way adjust steering nut and rear housing shims till a slight drag then back off till no drag.
4/reconnect steering arm and each ball joint one by one. Check each one as above for drag (3/) individually till the whole system is reassmbled.

I have now done this...I have a nice light steering wheel, and a bit of wander and about 3/4 inch play in the steering wheel.
I set up the wheel alignment with strings the old fashioned way..I have access to a regularly calibrated computerised modern wheel alignment macine... I was close but not close enough.
Another very experianced Braddy owner thought I have good steering considering its a Braddy before the alignment machine...
The improvement with accrute wheel alignment was quite dramatic
I have an intersection not far from home where there are a couple of nice bumps and just the right camber change to get the 'wobbles' on purpose.
Since the wheel alignment I cannot get it to wobble anymore, thu it does 'feel' it could it, will not. I pass this intersection a several times a day.

I know that CB cranks are suspect if you try to overload them. CC is supposed to be more robust, but Personally I only have experience of breaking a CC one!

What was the cause of the break?
I have spoken to many ppl re compression and they all mention the crank...but I have yet to find someone who has actually played with compression, or cam inlet valve closing ABDC.
This part I will continue in the Engine question here to keep continuinty for future reference.
http://jowett.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=165

[Keith Andrews]

Caster and camber?
What do u do to adjust these?
Bend the axle?
If so where?
Heat? thu this is not a good idea, and if so by what method to re harden?

[Keith Andrews]

Factory Data for Bradford
Camber 2 deg
Caster 2 deg 7.5'
Toe 0 - 3.2mm

King pin inclination 8.5 deg

the correct camber without the use of wedges

I rem reading somewhere in a Bradford manual about wooded wedges between axle and springs...Is this what you are refering to?

The king pin inclination...where is that measured? what exactly is this?

I dont make applogies for asking all these questions...This site I see eventually being a great international data base for info...Many of u guys have this stuff in your heads/experiance...us new guys and those that follow after us, need this before u older guys have reache your 'use by date' lol (Im in my mid 50s) to preserve our cars for future generations.
Sure I have collected a heap of Manuals..downloadable pdfs, cruise the 2nd hand book shops, and even just aquired Pitman's Jowett manual (1959)...but there still remains questions, book can only tell part of the story, nothing beats 'hands on'.

[Keith Andrews]

Now where is the publication on the recomendation of useing wooden wedges.
I would love to read that?

Geeze...I have manuals, the pdf files damn libaray lol...Somewhere there is a comment/fix about the 'wobble' fix cutting a wooden wedge and slotting in...

I have more or less free access to the latest fully computerised alighnment equipment....with that do the KPI?
Would this not be the camber?

[Bryan Walker]

From "modern motor repair and overhauling" 1930's

The procedure to check the castor is to lay a 3ft straight edge on the spring seat (centered). The difference between the end heights should be 0.314" for each half degree of caster. (higher end of rod should be to the front of car).

PS it dose mention using wedges to correct by placing wedges between the spring and spring seats so that the top goes further back.

Bryan

[Keith Andrews]

Good to see Kiwis heading here..
Pat... this Churcill wheel alignment...did a google...came up -ve what is it?
The equipment I have available, does full 4 wheel, sdatum, toe caster, camber.
It one of those modern units where the car goes on the hoist, lazer units attached to each wheel etc...It is at a branch of a major Australasian tyre/wheel alignment company.

Steps