I should know better at my age

[PJGD]

To go along with the previous post, I have done a better drawing of the Bradford CC valve spring compressor:

[David Kemp]

I made the valve spring compresser. It worked very well, the rusty lump of steel next to it is the scrap I started with.
Sadly as I suspected the exhaust valve on the drivers side is cactus.

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[David Kemp]

Oddly a valve facing machine was for sale locally cheap.
I bought it & incredably re faced the valve.

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[StevenGray]

That is a nice find, I looked on Ebay here in the UK and there are a couple available for £150-200.
I have in the past refaced some in a small lathe using a carbide tool,
most old valves are not particularly hard so a good finish can be attained

[David Kemp]

This is the easy way to lap valves, it takes 5 minutes with this air tool rather than 50 minutes by hand.
It is also easier on my old hands!
The end of both intake & exhaust valves were worn & needed grinding.

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[David Kemp]

After fixing this valve on the drivers side, the other cylinder was now down on power by comparison.
So off came the head & the exhaust valve was also needing a grind. By luck a box of NOS valves was for sale on ebay.
The odd thing was my Jowett valve spring compresser worked fine for three valves but could not remove the last valve. Possibly tha cam shaft lobe on this valve does not have the same lift as the others.I am not pulling it apart to find out.

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[David Kemp]

One step forward & another one back. Thats the old car tango.
The front axle eyes are oval not round. One kingpin fell out it was so loose.
Any ideas on a fix? Is the axle steel or iron?
If steel possibly I could run a bead of weld to shrink it.
All sugestions welcome.

[StevenGray]

The axle is a steel forging so is weldable.
I would consider machining the axle and bushes out to 18mm and making some new pins to suit.
I would think that it is doubtful that running a weld around the outside would shrink the bore sufficiently to work.

[David Kemp]

I tried the welding method, this worked well but not good enough. I contacted the club & they do have front axles.
I just need to wait till Jim our parts guy is back from the annual rally & I have my Subaru out of the workshop.
A 5$ part failed, filling the sump with water & radiator with oil. This requires the engine to be removed as sump is bolted to the bell housing , then total engine dismantling.
A crazy dedign if I ever saw one.
How they expected an o ring to last the life of an engine beats me.

[David Kemp]

I have picked up another axle & have started cleaning it up.
It has been sitting outside for many years.
It looked very unloved compared to the other axle in storage however after measuring wear it was the best..
Which shows folks please dont dump those old rusty parts as they can still have life.

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[David Kemp]

I have cleaned & painted my new axle.
Does anyone know of a modern seal for the hubs?
Mine are old felt seals which are leaking grease everywhere.

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[BarryHarding]

I just put modern sealed bearings in mine, can't remember what I did with seals, it was years ago.
It has performed perfectly for many thousands of miles.

Barry

[StevenGray]

David

I have written down W20013725R4 for a modern lip seal.

It breaks down to 2" Od 1.375 Id and 1/4" wide R4 is steel outer.

I don't remember doing any modifications to the bearing retainer to make them ft.

Hopefully there is somewhere down under that supplies imperial oil seals, they are readily available in the UK

[David Kemp]

I have installed sealed bearings but will try to find the seal you mention.
The hub relies on a locking ring to hold in the bearings.
Each of my rings have two holes , neither lines up with the hub.
Is this a case of tightening more? Or drilling a new hole?

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[Forumadmin]

I think new locking rings are available but if not clean up the threads especially around the hole and then drill a new hole.