Early Javelin Restoration

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end of torsion.jpg

front end of torsion.jpg

About my groaning noise and rumble at the front (suspencion)

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frontend .jpg

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the mesurement

it should NOT to hammered on!!!! should have a little play so all the items will working free!!

[p.p.]

it was a bit of work.... for the near side - no problem // but to the off side hade to losened the engine.....
now it ride very nice, no rumble and banging .... problem solved!!!

still have to get the carburettors running... have to do it with a synchrometer....

Picture will follow soon....

[Keith Clements]

I think I might disagree with the diagnosis. Unless I am mistaken the trunnion bush should be an interference fit on both the spring arm and the bracket. See maintenance manual page 61 para 128 and read the special note at the very bottom for early cars. However, if it has fixed the creaking , I guess you are happy!
It is possible at some stage in its life the end was hammered to either get it out or put it in and making it parallel again is sensible. I do not recall it being an issue on assembly but then I did not see everything happening at the resto show and do not recall everything that happened before. However, getting the torsion bars out 5 years ago was a serious task and it is likely any damage occurred then.

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"Rhowina" got winter tight ...ready for the cool day's

[Chris Spencer]

Reconditioned Zenith carburettors supplied by Jowett Car Spares are now with Peter in Switzerland and await fitting

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[p.p.]

so today the first drive since the breakdown (dynamo). new dynamator... working very nice, had to fit it - grinding on all parts (will send later same pic). the expensiv one. would fit withaut any grinding but to save same money .... hope it pay's out. waiting of the bill!!!
The new oil pressure gauges mounting bracket is now fixed neat and nice!! so no oil dripping on the floor and carpet.... :)ready for the new season 2018 ....

[Keith Clements]

Peter phoned me this morning where he is having an issue with the car stuttering for 4 seconds when the throttle is depressed.
His mechanic seems to have checked carburation and the distributor.
He says that one carb is running weak and the other rich and says the vacuum advance is working.

Anyhow I am posting here some things I think should be checked.

Use timing disk or a good strobe gun.
With vacuum advance pipe disconnected, static advance should be zero deg or TDC, whilst at 2000 rpm it should be 22 deg. The advance curve is an approximate parabola created by two linear lines (defined by the strength of the springs) in between those two rev points. The advance should climb smoothly and there should be less than 4 degrees of scatter between cylinders. The exact advance curve depends on the weights and springs but these often wear to create too much advance after starting. Also the advance stop wears to give too great a maximum advance.
With the vacuum advance pipe on, when the throttle is fully and sharply depressed, an additional 10 degrees (no more) should be added for up to 4 seconds whilst the revs climb. Do not let the revs climb to more than 3500 rpm. Make sure the plate inside the distributor moves smoothly when the vacuum is applied and that it moves smoothly back to rest. This can be checked by sucking on a suitable pipe attached to the vacuum inlet with the distributor cap off. The vacuum advance, which is 10 degrees more than the dynamic advance caused by the weights and springs, should be the same across the rev range, even from 750 rpm.
Sometimes the engine may start and idle better with a static advance of up to 3 degrees BEFORE TDC. With modern petrols or tuned engines, an increase in maximum advance may also be possible and give more power before pinking or pre-ignition occurs. The onset of pinking is best detected going up a slight incline at half throttle when a tapping may start in the engine. This can cause serious damage and the ignition should be retarded until it stops. Note that changing the max advance by retarding the engine may make idling and starting worse.

More info in this topic.
and the dizzie specs here.

I have discussed the carburation issue at length with the engine rebuilder in Germany. They even fitted an electric petrol pump to perhaps remove one possibility. There are so many possible causes of weak and rich mixture, and with the added dimension of the inherent imbalance in the Jowett inlet and firing order, diagnosis is a challenge. But please feel free to give some assistance to Peter.

Note that Peter has tried three different sets of newly rebuilt carburetors in search of perfection, one from the engine rebuilder and two from JCS.

If the car starts easily without choke it is probable the mixture is too rich, possibly caused by leaking float needle valves or too high a petrol pressure. Low petrol pressure can cause the engine to die when the throttle is depressed. A hole in the float causing a rich mixture is also common and can be checked by shaking them. Washers under the needle valve control the petrol level.

Leaks around the carb gaskets, worn throttle shafts, a leak in the pipe going to the pintel valve on the oil filler or bad pintel valve can cause a weak mixture. Leaks in the float chamber gasket will upset carburation. The carb bodies can be easily distorted, so check fit with engineer's blue.

[Keith Clements]

Peter just phoned to say his (Bugatti) mechanic has found two problems with the carb. There was a hairline crack in the body and one screw in the vacuum circuit was too long. Hopefully all now fixed. I also hope we have get more detail on the issues.

Peter is doing a long rally next week and hopefully will document it here.

I spent yesterday cleaning up three distributors which I have now sent to the Distributor Doctor for some reconstructive surgery.

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Fixing of my brocken Gearlever.....

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Fixing my Breakligth switch the swiss way, maybe a good solution....

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Flex Exhaust... less noise....

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Spare Spark holder....