Javelin contact breakers

paul wilks · Post by **paul wilks** » Sat Jul 14, 2007 5:57 pm

Me again! I was unable to get a spark between the contact points so fitted a new set. I noted details of the contact set as I removed it and made a simple diagram. I fitted the new set in accordance with my diagram BUT noticed that the new set has a fibre washer which seems to be surplus! This made me think

My specific question relates to the 'tag' end of the wire from the condenser and the 'tag' end of the wire which goes to the body of the distributor. Both fit onto the post of the contact baseplate.
I know that there is a fibre washer at the bottom of the post, then the 'spring' end of the contact breaker, then the 'tag' ends, a plastic insert separating the ends from the post itself plus a metal washer and then the nut. But should there be a washer between the two tags or should they make direct contact? If there should be a washer should it be a fibre washer?

Please note there was no washer between the tag ends when I removed the old set AND I last ran the car twelve months ago in that condition- and, yes, it did run!

Has anyone got an exploded diagram of the contact breakers, please?

Thanks

Paul

rob needs · Post by **rob needs** » Sat Jul 14, 2007 8:31 pm

Try putting that other washer under the other end of the spring,on the other post.

paul wilks · Post by **paul wilks** » Sat Jul 14, 2007 8:55 pm

Thanks Rob but the other post already has a fibre washer.

Thanks

Paul

TedAllen · Post by **TedAllen** » Sat Jul 14, 2007 11:14 pm

Hi Paul,
Hope you and family ok/.
Basically the two tag ends, from the coil and from the condensor must make contact with the spring, which of course is insulated from the base plate and the threaded post, the fibre washer goes under the pivot post....... the one that goes through the plastic insert in the spring .....and the end of the spring round the threaded post is insulated by plastic sleeves top and bottom. The nut and washer go on top of the top sleeve and hold it all together.
hope this not too complex, if you get stuck give me a bell and I'll pop down and help
Regards
Ted

paul wilks · Post by **paul wilks** » Sun Jul 15, 2007 12:45 pm

Thanks Ted. I'll have another look at this to check whether I have all the washers in the right order!
Hope you are all well

Paul

Keith Clements · Post by **Keith Clements** » Sun Jul 15, 2007 8:00 pm

It is a good idea to get a decent multi-meter. You can check to make sure you have volts each side of the coil when points open and the CB side volts drop when the points close. You can use a lamp instead of a meter. A multimeter can also be used for checking capacitor; connect capacitor to 12v supply and then remove supply; then check capacitor holds charge with meter. This will not check insulation of capacitor on high back electro motive force though.

You can tell if you have a bad capacitor by looking at spark across points; if it is long then the capacitor is bad, if it is crisp then it should be OK.

Check the earth wire and feed wire are Ok with meter: with points closed the external terminal going to the coil should have zero resistance to engine case (or if you really want to make sure to the earth terminal on the battery). I have known poor starting because earth strap is not good or even connected.

Conversely with the wire to coil disconnected and the points open the resistance should be open circuit to earth. If not it usually means the plastic or fibre washer is not doing its job.

paul wilks · Post by **paul wilks** » Sun Jul 15, 2007 10:20 pm

Thanks Keith. Will do.

Paul