Removing rear drums

[Robert Dudley]

I am struggling to find/make a pipe/puller that will screw on to the drum. I can weld on a nut and bolt to do the pulling.
I have found a 1 3/4 inch pipe fitting but the thread appears to be 11-116 The thread on the hub seems to be 12-107 I have worked this out using a set of thread gauges "The LS Starrett Co USA Number 7" Inherited from my father who lived in the USA for a while.
As you have gathered I am not an engineer so looking for an idiots guide
Any ideas?

[Forumadmin]

I think Bill Lock has some rear hub pullers. drop him an email via JowettTalk. If you do not get a reply contact me.
They are an unusual thread!

[ian Howell]

This was posted in 2007 by David Morris (edited): -

Hi there,

In a previous thread, Ian Howell mentioned that he had made up a tool for removing the later ( full hydraulic ) rear brake drums based on a standard BSP pipe coupler and blanking plug.

Ian thought that this was based on a 2" BSP coupler, but having been down to our local engineering shop, I can vouch that you would need a nominal 1.5" BSP pipe coupler. This ends up as 1.875" i/d and the one I found in stock screws nicely onto the threads provided by Jowett's on the centre of the rear hubs, just behind the securing nut.

It should be fairly easy to remove the hubs by either using a suitable blanking plug screwed into the outer end of the coupler as Ian mentions, or make up a tool by welding a plate across the open outer end of the coupler and fit a large nut and set screw set into the centre, with the nut welded onto the plate.


HOPE THIS HELPS!

[Leo Bolter]

and fit a large nut and set screw set into the centre, with the nut welded onto the plate

A (unnecessary?) elaboration. In regard to the "force bolt" choice when making pullers.

Remember to try to use a bolt with as large a diameter as reasonably practical, with as fine a thread that you can find, into as long a nut (or the female thread on the "cap" end) that's available (two nuts welded together, maybe?). The fine thread will give better "leverage" than a coarse thread, and in spite of the fine thread being shallower, it'll cope with the resultant forces okay provided that the thread area is adequate. The large diameter and "nut" depth gives a big contact area so minimising stripping and/or wearing of the threads. Naturally, use a lubricant on the thread when using.

Of course a High Strength bolt is better than a Mild Steel one too.

I'm sorry Grannie, if I'm attempting to "teach you to suck eggs".

Cheers.
Leo.

[rob needs]

I borrowed one from club spares,got to pay the postage mind!

[ian Howell]

Club Spares - an often / usually overlooked facility!